Phugtal Monastery in Ladakh India is housed in the remote corner of the Lungnak Valley, part of the southeastern region of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh. Phugtal Monastery remains one of the most enchanting and sought-after places to explore in the entire region. The offbeat Phugtal Monastery Trek in Zanskar Ladakh denotes what travel experiences are meant to be.
Zanskar Valley and Phugtal Gompa
The Zanskar Valley is Ladakh is classified as a remote valley. The Phuktal Gompa situated in a rarefied location emanates a vibe of spiritual significance and self-learning. The site where in ancient times monks used to shelter and mediate to find their inner selves, Phuktal monastery draws visitors each year. Those who are willing to reach this remote corner of India. Undertake trek last few km to reach the monastery nestled high up in the sandstone cliffs.
The reader must try to visualize the Zanskar region. On Instagram, one would see many clips and photos of Ladakh but believe me, Zanskar though being a part of Ladakh is a totally different creature. The ruggedness of the region, the basic infrastructure and the sense of being on one’s own for long stretches of the dusty unpaved road immediately make one recalibrate their approach to visiting Ladakh.
The ecosystem dominates out here and indeed installs one with the confidence of living a life pitted against nature. It rekindles the dormant feeling of survival every single day. Yes, we do have technology on our side but it’s only a slim advantage. Nature out here is unforgiving but also colossal and magnificent. One who has seen Zanskar will become a fan of Ladakh and its solitude for eternity. The people who have made this region their home are true examples of the grit and tenacity that made humans survive in this world emerging to top of the food chain. Nature is treated with respect but also fought against when needed and technology for the locals is non-existent.
Why to venture to something as remote as Phugtal Gompa
The Phuktal monastery remains the calling for spiritual seekers, wanderers and monks alike. Who wish to find a sense of being detached from the rest of the world cocooned in a nest of self-thoughts. A tryst with understanding the intricacies of one’s actions and significance of life that we lead. It’s just for the monks, the places become a way of everyday life.
For a long time, almost more than 5 years ever since I had heard of this elusive monastery nestled high up in the secluded valleys of the Zanskar region I dreamed of one day seeing it with my own eyes. I envisioned images of experiencing solitude, the sense of standing at the very edge of familiarity; of just being detached from the strands of relationships and people I know and the life that I lead.
5 years it took me but one day, in the noon of the afternoon sun I found myself squinting my eyes against the high winds and piercing sunrays as I looked at Phuktal Gompa straight ahead of me. This is my amalgamation of thoughts on Phugtal Gompa Trek.
Phugtal Gompa and my thoughts on treks
The Gompa monastery stands on the cliff of a natural gorge on the banks of the Lingti-Tsarap River. It merges into the Lungnak river at Purne flowing towards Padum. The gompa looks like a honeycomb structure on the edge of the cliff. It is supposed to be built on the edifice of a natural cave high up the cliff side. It was told to me by the monks that Phug = cave and Tal = liberation. Hence legends speak of rarified Buddhist teachers who lived in this cave hundreds of years ago trying to find the answers to the various questions that govern human life.
As I walked toward the Gompa, in the bosom of the gorges and valley with the wind and water for company, lots of thoughts ran through my mind. The mind introspects on each action that one has done in the everyday life that we lead. The good and the bad are both acknowledged. My treks have lots of introspection that happens as one walks amid raw nature. When there is no pretense outside the pretense within also diminishes.
One thing is confirmed whenever I venture into the unknown and wilderness I feel as if I am returning to the place I belong. I do discover nature and my affinity towards it. The ancient history of Phugtal Gompa reminded me of the magnitude of what I was undertaking. It was not a normal trek but rather a trek towards a sense of deep humility, an acknowledgement of the need for spirituality in one’s everyday life.
Teachings of Phugtal
Phugtal Monastery once again reminded me that Life should be slow. It should be giving us time for something precious. Phugtal reminded me of that – slowness. Focus on what matters, transcendence. Once I was done with the initial pleasure of clicking photos, I let the place and the vibe seep into me. The blue sky overhead, the electric blue river flowing uninhibitedly, its beauty on display but then there are no watchers. The golden-coloured cliffs, jagged and creased with the stamp of time on them so vivid and amongst all these stood silently the Phugtal Gompa. What a feeling it was for me indeed to be standing there, trying to soak in the history that is so omnipresent. You know stories become real only once you go the location. So its important to go from the virtual to the real.
History of Phugtal Gompa
Ladakh is a land of high passes as well as gompas. Some of the famous ones include the Thiksey Gompa, Alchi Gompa, Diskit Gompa, Phyang Gompa, Spituk gompa, Hemis gompa, Shey gompa and many others. One can spend days exploring these monasteries and their stories situated all across the Ladakh region.
Historically speaking the monastery was founded in the 15th century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo, a Tibetan Buddhist spiritual master. The Buddhist master was a follower of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism and was ardent in his commitment to spread Buddhism.
For informative reading. Tibetan Buddhism eventually branched into 4 main schools of thought which are known as Nyingma, Kagyu, Sakya and Gelugs. Each school had various masters and established Monasteries all over the world including Tibet and Ladakh to propagate the teachings of the individual schools.
The monastery was unknown to the world and even to many in the region outside Zanskar till the 19th century. The Hungarian explorer Alexander De Coros visited Phugtal Gompa and stayed the entire winter. As I stood at the edge of the monastery looking into the valley curving itself, the shimmering blue-green river was ever lively as it must have been on the day when Alexander Coros would have gazed down upon it. Nothing much changes in this part of the world until nature wills it. Even then the transition is so slow that it takes decades.
Description of offbeat Phugtal Monastery Trek in Zanskar Ladakh
How does one reach Phugtal Monastery ?? The trek to the Gompa commences from the village of Purne. One can still take the motorable road to about 2 km into the valley that opens into the gorge where the Gompa is situated. However, this particular stretch of road is for an experienced driver only. From this roadhead, the trek path hugs the banks of the Lingti Tsarap . The trekker traverse all along the slope and even sometimes right next to the raging river. It does have a few treacherous stretches but with care, these can be negotiated. So the overall Phugtal Monastery trek distance is around 7-8 km one way.
Pin this to save this Blog post for Bookmark
In the earlier days there used to be rickety bridges to cross the Lingti Tsarap however now there is a well-made bridge to cross the river. Then the final ascent of around 2 km to the Gompa situated high up on the cliff side.
offbeat Phugtal Monastery Trek in Zanskar Ladakh is being subjected to exposure by social media. In coming years many travelers making the visit there so the time is now to go trekking into the valley of Phugtal.
Best time to Visit Phugtal Gompa in the entire year
In the months of winter, Phuktal Gompa is completely cut off from all the villages owing to the tremendous snow. So it’s from July – Nov that one can visit the Gompa. I am not sure if in winter one can visit this monastery taking the route of the CHADAR Trek because that trek is still some way off from where Phugtal is located. There are two villages that one comes across in this trek. They are called Cha and Ammu which can be visited in case one wishes to do so.
The visitor can see the monastery school where the young monks study, the ancient cave around which the monastery has been built as well as the prayer hall. The monk quarters are not accessible. From the vantage point, one can see the solitary village on the opposite side of the river. A patch of green signifying cultivation amidst the golden brown landscape and a few houses.
Can we stay at the Phugtal Gompa, accommodation at Phugtal Gompa
There is accommodation available at the Monastery for those who wish to stay overnight. In addition, a satellite phone has been installed near the monastery as well as an internet facility
Memories of my visit to Phugtal Gompa
As I sit and type on my keyboard, my mind still conjures the moments of offbeat Phugtal Monastery Trek in Zanskar Ladakh. The pure joy of witnessing the mysticism coupled with the simplicity of the Phugtal Gompa. There are many treks in India but there will never be something so uniquely distinct like the Phugtal Gompa trek. The remoteness of Zanskar ensures that the old traditions and cultures still remain dominant in the hearts of those who reside in the gompa. The efforts of the local administration ensure that the gompa and the villages of Cha and Ammu benefit from better medical facilities and infrastructure. It is indeed a fine balance and not many times we get it right. So the adventure to trek and visit this amazing Phugtal Gompa is still very much real. I would urge you to make the walk to Phugtal Gompa.
FAQ on Zanskar and Phugtal Gompa
- offbeat Phugtal Monastery Trek in Zanskar Ladakh needs research beforehand
- Phugtal Monastery Location ?? It is located in Zanskar region. One can reach by road till village of Purne in Zanskar from Leh via Padum.
- Leh to Padum is close to 450 km via Kargil . One can also reach Purne from Manali via the Shinkoo La pass.
- There are two stay options in Purne Village (Budget). One Luxury stay option just on the motorable road till roadhead from where the trek commences.
- walking Stick and water with a good cap is essential.
- The winds are always cold hence warm clothing is essential. The technique of Layering would be a good idea. Read Here.
- It is recommended to start early for the trek by around 9 AM in case one wishes to be back by around 3 PM. Walking at dusk/night is definitely not recommended.
- The road from Padum or Manali , always follow the golden rule of the mountains. This is to start early, say by around 6 AM. Reaching Purne in the night is not a pleasing experience.
- In case one reaches Leh by flight, make sure acclimatize for 2 days prior to venturing into Zanskar Region.
- Ladakh is a dream destination for many and Zanskar is one of the crown jewels.
What is my blog all about ?
My blog focuses quite a bit on the ancient history, the art of India, among other places of travel that I keep doing. In addition to travel and exploring offbeat places, I am also interested in visiting and increasing my awareness of Historical institutions and places within India.
Your blog has a raw thought process and passion for travel…which is very unique.
thanks so much . You can connect by subscribing , the same can be done by using the option available on the right hand side of any post ( if from a pc ) and at the bottom ( if using a mobile )