Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons

A frame seen in Instagram, pine trees standing ramrod in the mist. This frame burnt in my memory and stoked the fire of “Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons”. North Bengal, a region that has always been coveted and loved by those who stay in the Eastern region of India. The states of West Bengal, Odisha and Jharkhand especially lead in this matter. While, the Northeast of this country attracts majority of travelers for its rustic beauty, remoteness and sense of grandeur. The mystical beauty of North Bengal is like a well-kept charm known only to those who have witnessed its beauty first-hand. For many residing in the City of Joy, North Bengal represents the preferred Kolkata weekend getaways.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
Sentinels of North Bengal

Seasonal beauty of North Bengal

India is a land of seasons. Many places have a different look and charm based on the season in which the traveller sees them. This is also the case for North Bengal. The beauty of the snow-clad mountains and iced roads contrasts so strongly with the same forests when covered with slow-moving clouds of fog and rainy roads in the monsoons. This play of hide&seek of the green mountains with the ethereal white milkiness of the fog banks is something that captures the attention of the traveller over a cup of tea from the small tea shops all along the highway. It is from this thought and the photograph that Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons roadtrip was born.

Lamahatta and dooars in North Bengal
Beauty of Dooars, North Bengal

The entire North Bengal is dotted with numerous small towns. These act as a gateway to enjoy and savour the natural beauty of the topography of the region. One can spend weeks just moving from place to place and taking it slow. However, like most I did not have the luxury of a month.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
Exploring offbeat North Bengal

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons

However, this monsoon I decided to soak in and explore a few of the most talked about places in the mountains of North Bengal; the catch being that it was peak monsoon. I was aching to see the beauty of these mountains in the monsoons and the Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons road trip was a success in this aspect. i saw visuals to satiate and delight my heart to its full content for some years to come.

takdah forest
Takdah Forest

The places that I explored were the region bordering Lamahatta to Lava. These two regions are located on either side of the Teesta River. This river is considered a lifeline as well as cause of destruction.

In the vicinity of the above-mentioned regions, one can visit villages like Rishob, Lolegaon, Kalimpong, Tinchuley etc. However, I found out that the topography is generally the same as they are all within a 100 km radius. Hence spending more time at two-three locations is generally a good idea as per me.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
Road trip through Dooars

So, monsoons were at their peak in the mountains of Bengal. It is during this time when I decided to turn my gaze towards the direction of North Bengal and begin my Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons road trip. As in any journey from a city, there is always an exit and to reach the hills one needs to make the uneventful long journey through the plains of Bengal. In this case, it is from Kolkata one exits and joins the NH 12 which passes through historic places like the Battle of Plassey memorial, towns steeped in history like Berampore, Maldah and iconic constructions like the Farakka Barrage.

Indo-Gangetic plain
plains of Bengal

Siliguri Darjeeling tourism

The town of Siliguri remains and acts as the gateway to the mountains of North Bengal. Hence this is the waypoint for most of the travelers who are coming from Kolkata. The distance of around 600 km from Kolkata on the congested and traffic-prone roads ensures that it takes close to 12 hours to reach Siliguri from Kolkata. There are many places to visit in Siliguri as well however the traffic in the city remains chaotic.

what to see in siliguri
Tashi Gomang Stupa, Siliguri

Darjeeling is a much sought-after weekend getaway from Kolkata. The proximity to Dooars tourist spots is also a reason for travelers thronging to this area in summers and winters. The Darjeeling Dooars and Lava sector is a highly recommended North Bengal tourist package. The North Bengal tourism potential has long been recognized by the administration. There are still many offbeat places in dooars that are waiting to gain recognition. While most of the agencies talk about common places to visit in North Bengal, hard-core travelers explore the many trails in the mountains and village roads of North Bengal. Someday, I feel someone would come out with an offbeat dooars tour guide map. This would definitely help many others.

what to see in Darjeeling
Quaint Darjeeling

Darjeeling Lamahatta sightseeing

The start point of the Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons road trip is Siliguri. From Siliguri, the region of Lamahatta is close to a four to five-hour drive. One can take the route through Kurseong travelling along the UNESCO heritage Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. This is a steam-driven railway catering to the tourist destinations in the region. I would recommend a stop at the Margaret’s Tea Deck for some tea and nibbles while overlooking the tea garden spread out all over with the fog swirling among them. Quite an enjoyable sight I found it to be. The Darjeeling Lamahatta sightseeing route is highly recommended by tour operators.  Kurseong to Lamahatta distance is 40 km.

Location and how to reach Lamahatta

Lamahatta is near the town of Darjeeling. It is on the road visiting Teesta Bazaar from Darjeeling. Originally inhabited by the local tribes as well as Buddhist holy men it has risen rapidly to become a sought-after place for travelers and tourists alike. Those who wish to experience weekend getaway in North Bengal among pine forests and mountains come here. The altitude of Lamahatta is 5000 feet. The natural beauty with prayer flags fluttering in the winds coming from the mountains makes one fall in love with this place.

when to visit Lamahatta
Lamahatta in winters

The climb from Kurseong town towards Lamahatta is indeed quite enjoyable as I found myself on meandering roads curving through the mountains with occasional villages nestled on the mountain slopes and the low-hanging clouds drifting as the wind takes them through the mountain ranges. The tall trees and forested slopes in all hues of greens on account of the bountiful rains indeed made a pretty sight. Lots of tea gardens spread all over the mountain slopes between pines and birches are nature lovers’ delight.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
Tea Gardens of North Bengal

Mountains in North Bengal

It is said that; for many the mountains are like a safe heaven. A kind of safe house from the everyday life that is led. Maybe for me also that is applicable; being born in the mountains there is a calling in the DNA to find the way back. Whatever the reasons, every year I try to find my way to the mountain. It does not matter which region, as long as I am surrounded by the rawness of the mountain, the clean cold air going deep in with every breath i take. Finding myself in such a landscape , i realized that Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons was truly underway.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
wonderland – North Bengal

I love the region around Lamahatta. A region dotted with pine forests and giant fern plants. The sheer size of the flora and fauna makes me in awe of the stillness of the atmosphere, the wetness of the fog on the bare skin and the rustle of the dead vegetation underneath the boots. It truly is a surreal feeling, like being in a fantasy land.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons

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What to see in Lamahatta

In villages around Lamahatta, one would find very desirable picture-perfect homestays where one can stay and soak in the charm of the mountains properly. Then there is the Blossom eco-tourism complex, various gardens and hanging bridges which are a must-visit. One can also plan to explore the offbeat places around Darjeeling which are all located in this region if days to spare are in hand.

exploring dooars
lanes and bylanes in hills of North Bengal

All these can be found on Google Maps if one makes the effort to scroll through the region before coming over as there are hardly any signboards all around. In addition, a visit to the Lamahatta eco-park is a must. The entry fee at the Lamahatta eco-park is minimal and helps to sustain conservancy services within the park.

The Lamahatta Eco Park sacred pond is another must-visit. Additionally, I would recommend a drive to the Tinchuley Lopchu road which takes one to the Gumbadara viewpoint, which is a magnificent place. Having a cup of hot mountain tea at one of the tea stalls while overlooking the tea gardens in the foreground with the mountains on the horizon and the valley in between is an amazing feeling indeed.

gumbadara view point
Gumbadara View Point

Homestays in Lamahatta

Like I said there are homestays galore to suit all budgets, all over the region but my recommendation is to go for Seven Pines Homestay. I stayed with them for the visit and it was a pleasant experience. The best part is the view of the valley on the opposite side from where one can see the Himalayan peaks all lined up on a clear day or night.

seven pines homestay Lamahatta
seven pines homestay Lamahatta

How to reach Lava North Bengal

Once I was done with Lamahatta and the surrounding region in terms of witnessing the beauty of the rain-soaked countryside. Savoring the greenery of the pines and freshness of the tea plantations I decided to head towards Lava. The distance from Lamahatta to Lava is around 61 km. One starts the journey with a picturesque drive all the way downhill to Teesta Bazaar. During this sector one keeps witnessing one vista after the next, such is the beauty out here. From Teesta Bazaar one crosses over the Teesta River and drives through the town of Kalimpong bustling with traffic. Finally driving on narrow empty roads that lead towards Lava. Kalimpong to Lava by road, distance is 33 km.

exploring Lava north bengal
exploring Lava North Bengal

The stretch post Kalimpong when driven in monsoons is full of greenery and mist on narrow roads. An immersive experience I would say; this is what one would expect during the Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons. Of course, there is the probability of landslides. This factor needs to be considered if one wishes to see this region in the monsoons.

The Khampong and Lava forests greet visitors as they engulf the scenery all around and dominate the frame. With tall pines and birches standing ramrod straight like soldiers all set for a military inspection, it is a sight to see these stretches indeed. Lava is situated at a height of 2350 mts and is a much sought-after destination during the winter as well as summer months.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
pine forests of Lava

What to see in Lava

In Lava one can visit the Lava Kongtrul monastery,community church, Rachela Peak and Changey Falls as points of interest. In addition, a visit to Neora Valley National Park is also recommended. However, in peak monsoons, the national park as well as Rachela Peak is off-limits owing to the immense rains and landslides-prone terrain. Lava tourism is still in its nascent stages other than the proliferation of homestays.

places to see in Lava
beauty of Lava in monsoons

Exploring the Lava Lolegaon sector

So what is recommended to see in the Lava Lolegaon region? From Lava one can also visit Rishop which is a tiny hamlet. It is situated close to the Khampong forest and on the opposite side is the drive to Lolegaon. Lava Lolegaon Rishob remains three sought-after destinations in this sector.  Lolegaon is a tiny Lepcha tribal hamlet at a height of 1675 mts. The Lepchas are one of the oldest tribes of North East and are known for their unique weaving and basketry skills. They are also known as “Rongkup” meaning Children of God and regard Kanchenjunga as their guardian deity.  

Kanchenjunga in sandakphu trek
Kanchenjunga as seen from Sandakphu Trek

One can see the Kanchenjunga and other peaks from vantage points around the village when the weather is clear. Do witness the astounding natural beauty with a specific focus on places of interest such as Permyak Point, Heritage Forest, Jhandi Dhara Bridge and the Canopy Hanging Bridge. However, in these two regions in monsoons, the approach roads are very narrow and owing to their geographical locations very prone to landslides. Hence plan to visit only if you have a sturdy vehicle and days in hand for unexpected delays. However, like I said the general topography of all these regions is the same. What you see in Lava and the surroundings is similar to what you would see in Rishob or Lolegaon barring specific viewpoints. Hope this short Lava Lolegaon tour guide is helpful irrespective of the season you are visiting.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
Lava in a frame

Places and hotels to stay in Lava Lolegaon

The Lava Rishop Lolegaon sector has multiple homestay options. There are multiple Homestays in Lava but my recommendation is for Cerulean Retreat which is a fairly new hotel. It is near the entry point to the National Park and Rachela Peak viewpoint. It is preferable to stay in Lava and travel to Lolegaon. Distance of Lava to Lolegaon is one hour away to explore the area.

How to move around the Lava Lolegaon sector

The most convenient way is a vehicle either self-driven or a rental cab as public transport is very erratic. Additionally, the entire region is so enchanting and photogenic that one would like to stop multiple times while exploring the various roads and key points. The distance of Njp to Lava is 110 km while Darjeeling to Lava is 105 km. There are multiple lava Lolegaon rishop tour packages operated by tour guides if one wishes to avail in the tourist season.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
Moving towards the mountains of North Bengal

Ending the Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons

In conclusion, visiting this region in the monsoons is a very niche way of travel because of the limitations imposed on account of the monsoons and the impact on the hillsides. Having said that, the beauty of these regions in monsoons is an experience on another level. Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons was one road trip that went really well. The sight of mist-covered rain-soaked forests of pines and birches is what is so elusive in the remaining part of the year. So be very sure why you wish to visit this part in monsoons and not during winter (Sep–Jun) when one can enjoy the views of the mountain peaks as well and not worry about landslides.

North Bengal in monsoons
North Bengal in monsoons

For me this landscape in monsoons just makes my heart sing, feel alive speechless at how incredible it is. This part of the earth is always special, in awe about living a life experiencing this. I feel that I am on the edge of something vast and infinite, the valleys and mountains in clouds. It did not matter to me how much I saw in those short days spent here, what mattered was that I was there for some moments, being a part of the earth and landscape standing shoulder to shoulder with this beauty spread all around me.

Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons
frames to imprint in the memories

I hope these views were self-explanatory for you to pack your bags and head out here in the upcoming monsoons to see a slice of Monsoons paradise. As I said previously there are many places to visit in North Bengal, it’s only the decision of where to go that needs to be taken.

flora of North Bengal
Flora of North Bengal

What is my blog all about ?

My blog focuses quite a bit on the ancient history, the art of India, among other places of travel that I keep doing. In addition to travel and exploring offbeat places, I am also interested in visiting and increasing my awareness of Historical institutions and places within India. Do subscribe to this blog for more content on similar lines.

4 Replies to “Exploration of North Bengal in monsoons”

    1. Very informative and well described. loved reading this. I am sure it will help many travelers plan their ideal itineraries.

  1. Exploration of North Bengal in Monsoon~Your blog on reading is so full of great insights and detailed with beautiful visuals.

  2. The way you described North Bengal thinking of going again in Monsoon. You pen down well. Do keep up the good work. Eagerly waiting for the next one.

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