Kaho and Kibitoo India’s first villages-Journey to the East of the Far East in Arunachal Pradesh

Post topic: Kaho and Kibitoo, India’s first villages. Arunachal Pradesh is the land of dawn-lit mountains and the largest state in Northeast India. It is endowed with flora and fauna, breathtaking landscapes amid rugged terrain, and a state where the sun touches the country the very first thing. Colourful festivals dominate Arunachal Pradesh’s culture. The culture of Arunachal Pradesh is all about being inclusive, especially considering the varied tribes that inhabit this land.

Arunachal Pradesh, the Largest in the North East of India

India’s remotest state is the first Indian soil to greet the rising sun. Located on the northeastern tip of India, with its borders touching China, Bhutan, and Myanmar, this beautiful land has a dazzling array of flora and fauna bound to amaze any traveller. The capital of Arunachal Pradesh is Itanagar, a rapidly emerging city in the North East. I wanted to visit this land and planned an extensive road trip to East Arunachal. The highlight of this road trip is visiting Kaho & Kibitoo, India’s first villages.

Road Trip to Arunachal Pradesh

Arunachal has always been close to my heart; a sense of fascination is invoked whenever my memories ignite, thinking of my road trips to this region. This time, I decided to undertake the road trip to the easternmost region of Arunachal Pradesh to visit Kaho & Kibitoo, India’s first villages. I want to see the dawn rising in India before any other part of the country. I travel to this region of Arunachal to explore the very first village of India, to travel through legendary tales of Lord Parshuram, and to hike to a very elusive lake in the Kamlang Wildlife Sanctuary.

Arunachal Pradesh in the India map

Disregarding the map of Arunachal Pradesh, I divided the state into four central regions for ease of travel: West Arunachal(read here), East Arunachal, Central Arunachal, and Southeastern Arunachal. This road trip is all about East Arunachal, aptly titled “Journey to the East of the Far East in Arunachal Pradesh.” However, one needs to understand that districts play an important role in understanding the state. There are 27 districts in Arunachal Pradesh.

Places to visit in Arunachal Pradesh

To reach Arunachal Pradesh, I needed to move out of West Bengal, cross Assam, and then enter Arunachal. It is a long road traversing the North Bengal Dooars ( read here) , Assam’s humongous tea estates ( read here), and Kaziranga’s rhino country. The places/regions I planned to cover during the road trip in Arunachal included:-

• Namsai: Home to the Golden Pagoda, one of the largest in North East India
• Wakro: The hidden jewel of Arunachal Pradesh
• Walong: The place of Bamboo groves, the Sino Indian 1962 war
• Kaho: On the Indo-China Line of Actual Control (LAC)
• Kibitoo: The easternmost village of India
• Glow Lake: The holy lake of the Mishmi Tribe inside the Kamlang Tiger preserve
• Helmet Top: above the Namti Plains, dedicated to the sacrifice of the Indian soldiers.
• Namti Plain: The plains of Namti known as Tiger’s mouth

Arunachal Pradesh Tourism

Arunachal Pradesh tourism is on the path to explode exponentially in the years ahead. However, presently, the region is unaffected by rampant tourism. The Tawang sector and places like Mechuka and Anini dominate the list of places to visit in Arunachal Pradesh. While West Arunachal (Tawang sector) receives many visitors, the other parts of the state receive a nominal percentage of seasonal travellers, thus preserving history. If you reach Eastern Arunachal, the views will leave you mesmerised. If one persists, the reward is exploring Kaho & Kibitoo, India’s first villages.

Straight out of an AI-generated image, the landscape is dominated by lush green forests, towering mountain ranges, and deep valleys with shining rivers at the very base, which are mostly inaccessible. In Arunachal, distances are measured in time, not speed, because you are perpetually climbing up or descending the mountain.

I entered Arunachal after showing my ILP(Inner Line Permit) at the border check post. I ventured towards Namsai town. Surrounded by fertile lands where crops are grown in abundance, the entire scenic ecosystem was pleasing to the eye.

Namsai, Arunachal Pradesh

Namsai’s appeal lies in its Golden Pagoda. It is also the district headquarters of the Namsai district of Arunachal. I arrived in Namsai in the late afternoon and immediately proceeded to the Namsai Monastery, which is located in the heart of the town. The monastery was empty of visitors, which spoke of how few visitors come this far. Having the whole monastery to myself, I wandered through the gardens, the prayer hall and shrines, soaking in the feeling of having come this far to see something like this, which otherwise I would have never come to know. If Namsai was this alluring, I almost shivered excitedly thinking of how it would reach Kaho & Kibitoo, India’s first villages.

I proceeded to the Golden Pagoda, around 20 km away. When I arrived, it was early evening. Walking inside the well-maintained garden in the golden hues of the diminishing sunlight was a pleasure.

Golden Pagoda, Namsai

The Golden Pagoda at Namsai, built on the lines of the Burmese Buddhist temples, was opened in 2010. Thai Buddhist monks also visit the place on special occasions. The practices and ceremonies followed here align with those observed in Southeast Asia.

After exploring the pagoda, I turned onwards, for there was still a bit of daylight left, and I needed to cover the remaining distance to my destination for the night. My stay was in a town called Tezu. It was night when I reached Tezu, a nondescript town in the Lohit district. Tezu was historically crucial for trade in the eastern regions of the state. It also serves as the district headquarters of the Lohit district.

My halt was a transit stop, which I needed to proceed further inwards. Overall, I would have ideally avoided Tezu because of the limited decent stay options.

Exploration of Kaho and Kibitoo, India’s first villages

The next morning, I quickly exited the town and immediately was in the middle of lovely greenery, blue skies and a gentle morning sun. The road was excellent in this stretch, pure tarmac cut through the lush green patch. Soon, I decided to stop and organise my breakfast. I have embarked on an initiative to prepare at least two meals out of three while on road trips. This is to soak in the feeling of preparing your food while cutting down on expenses and preparing to undertake an off-grid road expedition sometime in the future. But that is a long way off for now.

Today, my destination was Wakro, the largest town in the region where I was heading. It was still some km away, 70 km to be precise. Beyond Wakro, I eventually found myself in NH, which led me to Kaho and Kibitoo, India’s first villages.

Eventually, the road condition deteriorated as I reached the banks of the mighty Lohit, flowing down to the valley floor while the road hugged the mountain slope. Hence, it was prone to repeated landslides and fully exposed.

Lohit River, Arunachal Pradesh

Lohit: Meaning Blood, this river flows through the heart of Arunachal Pradesh for close to 200 km—no matter the terrain, Lohit cuts and carves through the landscape to surge ahead. Originating in Tibet, it enters Arunachal at Kaho and Kibitoo, India’s first villages. From there, it flows through Eastern Arunachal before entering the Assam plains, where it meets the Brahmaputra. The Lohit traverses the landscape and religious beliefs, from the Mishmi to the Khamptis, Buddhism, and Hinduism.

Parasuram Kund, Wakro

By the time I reached the vicinity of the town of Wakro, I came across Parashuram Kund. Historically, Parasuram Kund signifies the legendary battle axe of Sage Parasuram, who mediated here to atone for beheading his mother( read here). He mediated and prayed to be absolved of the sin. Pilgrims come here from far and wide to forgive their sins in the Parasuram Kund.

The axe eventually became a small hillock in the Lohit River and gained prominence. After seeing Sage Parasuraman’s legendary battle axe, I proceeded to Wakro, which was still 15 km away.

Wakro, Arunachal Pradesh

Wakro is a vital town in the region and the nodal point for those proceeding further east into Arunachal Pradesh. It acts as a resupply hub and an administrative node. Its proximity to the plains of Arunachal lying to its west and further opening up to the Assam plains makes it a vital staging post for expeditions into the Far East.

My stay in Wakro also included a trek to an exclusive lake in the middle of the Kamlang wildlife sanctuary. This trek, known as the Glow Lake trek, can be read about here.

Glaw Lake, Kamlang Wildlife Sanctuary

The Mishmi tribe is prominent in Wakro. I was attempting a trek to the elusive Glow Lake. The trek to Glow Lake, Arunachal Pradesh, is part of the accessible portion of the Kamlang sanctuary. Glow Lake is situated at an elevation of 5000 feet, covering an area of 8 sq km with a circumference of 5 km. The lake is accessible only by steep trekking. Hugged by snowy mountains and densely forested canopies, it lies hidden. The lake remains surrounded by legends and folklore.

Life in Arunachal Pradesh

I need to talk a bit about the role of Mithuns out here. Mithuns are domesticated bovine animals, giant in stature but pretty docile. They are reared in many parts of Arunachal. This was the first time I came across them. Their role is central to the lives of the Mishmi tribes in this region. For the idu Mishmi, Mithuns represent the wealth that the family has. They are not used for farming or milk, but rather are left to graze for themselves and given away ritually during the time of marriage or sacrificed during religious rituals.

From Wakro, I proceeded further ahead. My path led me to the farthest points east of Arunachal, towards Kaho and Kibitoo, India’s first villages.

Kaho and Kibitoo India’s first villages

Walong, Kaho, Kibitoo, Dong Valley—these names were unknown to me just a few months back until I decided to embark on this ambitious journey to the far east of Arunachal. I have since arrived on the path leading to these regions.

From Wakro, I took NH 113, a long journey to Walong. As I travelled further inland, the landscape changed in sections. The Lohit River accompanied me as I moved higher into the mountainous country among gigantic valleys.

The day was bright and sunny, with the green forested mountains and azure blue sky giving me company throughout. The deep valleys, the high plateaus, and the diverse ecosystem comprising dense forests and far-in-the-distance snow-capped Himalayan peaks presented a surreal sight. In my imagination, I thought that those mountain peaks were the gateway to Tibet, lying just beyond Kaho & Kibitoo, India’s first villages.

Tribes of Arunachal Pradesh

For generations, ethnic tribes (read here) such as Mishmi, Monpas, Khamptis, Apatani, etc., have inhabited this land, calling it home. The forests have been a part of their ecosystem, culture, and livelihood. Home to various species of flora and fauna, I witnessed the diverse kinds of forests in my journey, from dense tropical forests to mesmerising bamboo forests and high plateau grasslands.

Arunachal Pradesh map

While English remains the official language of Arunachal, considering the various tribes that inhabit this land, diverse dialects are in use, mostly originating from the Tibeto-Burmese family. Arunachal cuisine is focused on wholesome dishes with a focus on local ingredients and cooking styles.Meat remains a staple part of any Arunachal food preparation.

Walong, East Arunachal Pradesh

It was early evening, and the sun was already on its way to ending the day, when I reached the outskirts of Walong town. Walong, a picturesque valley renowned for serene landscapes, nature trails, and adventure thrills, is also a prime attraction for the history buff.

It is home to the Walong war memorial, which stands as a tribute to the Indian soldiers who valiantly defended this region during the Sino-Indian 1962 conflict. Its breathtaking beauty offers a stark contrast to the historic wartime legacy.

In the Mishmi language, Walong means a place of bamboo groves. Walong remains nestled in the easternmost Himalaya region of our country. Indian army formations dominate the entire area, lessons learnt from the Sino-Indian 1962 war.

In Walong, I planned to visit the following:-

• Walong war memorial in Namti Plain
• Kaho
• Kibitoo
• Dong Valley

Snippets of the Sino Indian 1962 War

The Battle of Walong, Fought in the winter of October-November 1962(read here), amplifies the indomitable spirit of the Indian Army. Traditionally, this sector was guarded by the Assam Rifles; however, due to the increase in Chinese incursion, 6 Kumaon was inducted into the area in Mar 196. During the Oct-Nov time, the Chinese launched a battalion attack on Kibitoo, which was held only by a company of 6 Kumaon. Despite being outnumbered and outgunned, Indian soldiers showcased a heroic defence, delaying the advancing Chinese force and displaying unparalleled courage.

The sentinel hills that surround us  stand
Bear witness that we loved our land 
Amid shattered rocks and flaming pine 
We fought and died on the Namti plain
Oh, Lohit, gently glide
Pole stars above us gently shine 
As we sleep here in the sun and rain 

Valour of the Indian Army, 1962 War

The War memorial at Namti plain is simple in construction under the open sky, and the peaceful location hides the bloody battle fought in the winter of 1962. The expansive plain with the gentle rustle of breeze only speaks about the heroic language to those who have taken the time to read about what all happened here in the annals of history. A poignant reminder that unknown soldiers died for the country, in far-off lands defending the motherland’s borders.

Kaho and Kibitoo, India’s first villages

Kaho & Kibitoo, India’s first villages: These villages, on either side of the Lohit, are among the first villages of India on the eastern front. Standing here, one can easily see the Chinese settlements up ahead. The road to these villages is beautiful, passing through pine glades and plateaus.

As the easternmost villages of India, both Kibitoo and Kaho are surrounded by towering mountain ranges, raging rivers, and stunning landscapes. Kibitoo remains a village with maybe 5-10 families. Kaho is a bit bigger, with shops, government buildings, medical facilities, and a school.

Reaching these villages is a thrill, considering the distances and remoteness involved. One cannot help but feel patriotic and accomplished after visiting them. I think it’s a rare privilege to reach these places considering the city life we lead. So many thoughts spring up in the mind when surrounded by an ecosystem comprising nature, simplicity, patriotism and a minimalist life.

FAQ

The best time to visit Arunachal Pradesh: Any time is good, other than monsoons and deep winter

Best places to visit in Arunachal Pradesh: It is a personal choice, but I recommend the Tawang sector. East Arunachal is for the select few who love adventure, rawness, and a minimalist lifestyle.

Arunachal Tour Package: Avoid agencies. However, private taxi operators can provide a good deal for a limited number of days and specific destinations.

Arunachal Historic Places: Visit the timeless monasteries and Indian Army memorials built throughout the state.

Arunachal Pradesh Weather: Unpredictable, rains are frequent, irrespective of the month of the year, except winter.

Arunachal Pradesh tourist spots : Sela Pass, Bomdila, Dirang, Madhuri Lake, Bum La pass , Mechuka,Anini , Ziro ,Tawang. However, my blog will show you what magic is in the not-so-tourist spots.

Arunachal Pradesh ILP. It is mandatory to have an Inner Line Permit to enter Arunachal. It’s best to make it online and carry printouts of the same. LINK is here.

Arunachal Pradesh border with China: We have fought a war with China in this region, so Arunachal Pradesh has a significant Army presence. Hence, be aware that we shouldn’t click any military posts or installations while flying the drone or taking pictures.

Kaho and Kibitoo India’s first villages

So this was my exploration, a Journey to the East of the Far East in Arunachal Pradesh. It spanned over two weeks, and I drove close to 4500 kms, spending my time amidst surreal landscapes, history, tribal beliefs, nature, and a minimalistic lifestyle that detoxified me of all that I accumulated during my time spent in the city. Please plan to visit these places while their allure and thrill still exist.

What is my blog about ?

My blog focuses on nature-based places and offbeat destinations. India has an abundance of these kinds of places. Read about the forest magic of Odisha out here, or read an in-depth story about the trek to Sandakphu to see the Kanchenjunga up close. A visit to Haflong, the only recognised hill station in Assam, is recommended. I did visit beaches in Benagl as well. If the word Bakkhali triggers your imagination, then read it here.

In case you do Pinterest and would like to share and save this pin to your boards for later referrals, here is the link