To the far South West of Leh, runs a unique mountain range spanning 640 km separating a 7000 sq km region that lies in its foothills from the rest of Ladakh. This range is the Zanskar Mountain Range. This post reflects my journey through some vital parts of this 7000 sq km region of Zanskar in Ladakh. One of the last remaining frontiers in the state of Ladakh. I planned extensively for this road trip looking into minute details but I still did not know how the region would impact me. Oh boy! What an impact it made. To read my ramblings of ecstasy, scroll through 14 Days Exploring in the Zanskar Region – My Complete Travel Guide For the last so many years I had carried in my head the dreams and aspirations of being on a road trip in Zanskar. This is an account of that journey.
For those looking in 2024 and beyond, for adventure mixed with spirituality and a healthy dose of isolation thrown in, a road trip to Zanskar Valley tops the list in Ladakh. The Zanskar remains one of the last frontiers for true adventures in India. This high-altitude region filled with towering mountain ranges and a vast network of interconnecting valleys is awe-inspiring for the traveller who comes to visit this region. While on Google Maps the distance from Zanskar to Leh might not appear to be big, much changes during this journey and it seems almost like another lifetime.
Squinting my eyes against the noon sun, I glanced at the dusty trail leading deep into the mountain valleys. Solitude all around with no human in sight, just the trail beckoning me to move ahead. I had no option other than to move ahead. With fuel at a premium, the possibility of dithering and not making decisions is a luxury that one cannot afford in the Zanskar. The Zanskar, yes finally I was here, deep in its bosom wrapping my head around the vistas and spectacles I witnessed. For 14 days I travelled as far as I could, on unnamed dusty trails, without the bondage of internet and network. this experience made me wish to share with others what I saw and felt in the form of a monologue Zanskar Region – My Complete Travel Guide
Zanskar Ladakh remains a place which had a profound impact on me. There was so much to see and soak in, sights that were so different from what I got to see in the other parts of Ladakh. From towering peaks to vast valleys floors in-between with meandering rivers and the simplicity of the people in the villages. The aura of the spirituality of the monasteries that bind the villages together was so impactful. The Phugtal Monastery, an epitome of spirituality in the wild mountains has a mysticism of its own.
Through this post, I will try to provide tips and information on how to explore the Zanskar Region – My Complete Travel Guide. This will include a broad Zanskar itinerary that includes how to reach Zanskar as well as which route I took and why and homestay details. If there is any specific Zanskar Valley travel itinerary query, reach me on Instagram and would gladly answer the same. You could also consider subscribing to my YouTube channel for I try to showcase the region of my travels in cinematic format. There is the standard Zanskar tour package offers available but avoid it.
It was 2014 I guess when I started reading about Ladakh and dreaming of a road trip to Ladakh region. However, it was only around 2017 that I focused more on the Zanskar valley region. Even then only a very few ventured to this part of Ladakh for the rawness of this place was too much to handle including the logistics. I kept making plans, revising them as years passed by till 2022 dawned when finally, I felt the calling so strong that I knew that it was this year when I would be finding myself in the Zanskar Valley. Let me tell you something interesting.
A hazy picture of the legendary Drang Drung glacier seen years back by me igniting this simmering flame within. Today here I am; all because of a Zanskar Valley picture seen. After 12 years I find myself standing exactly where the picture was taken
I saw Ladakh in 2014 when Instagram had not taken birth, the love story with this place germinated then. Over the years social media changed Ladakh and the space of solitude in the mountains kept shrinking every year further. I shudder to think about what comes ahead in the age of hyper Instagram reels but if you are lucky, you will still experience the magic of erstwhile Ladakh in Zanskar with just you, your ride, the mountain and the universe all around. This is what will captivate your heart for eternity.
Like any good story, mine too on Zanskar Region – My Complete Travel Guide, begins with a name. So, what does Zanskar mean? There are several explanations for the same and each one seems authentic. So, I am confused but mainly they centre around the following
Whichever out of the three one believes in, for me they all point to an overarching idea of a region that has a healthy dose of spirituality, culture as well as natural beauty. This is an aspect I truly believe in. Zanskar has remained a Buddhist region since so many generations. The Kingdom of Zanskar has been exposed to the influence and ways of the Dogras, Lahaulis, and Kashmiris among others yet the people of this region have retained their way of life through generations.
Zanskar can only be reached by Road. While there is no direct bus service to the major towns from outside the region, one can still look at dong break journeys utilising a combination of state-run buses and local cabs to reach Zanskar from Leh or Kargil. However, for this post, I recommend visiting either by self-drive or taking a cab. On my part, it was a self-driven self-planned road trip of two weeks.
Route 1: The most traditional and accepted route remains to reach Kargil from either Srinagar or Leh town. Both are on opposite ends of each other. From Kargil, one crosses Suru Valley and reaches the town of Padum in the heart of Zanskar Valley.
Kargil – Sankoo – Parachik – Rangdum – Pensi La – Padum.
These names might appear random to the first-time traveller but trust me once you have travelled on this route, you will remember these names for eternity because of the memories that they will ignite inside whenever you think of them. Such is the power of these random names. From the golden Suru Valley to the snow peaks of the Nun Kun massif and then to the first view of a living glacier known as Drang Drung, this route has it all.
As I said, one will either come from Srinagar or Leh town, hence Kargil is the destination that acts as the gateway to take the path to enter the Zanskar region.
Distances : Kargil to Zanskar/Padum : 232 kms
Leh to Kargil: 216 km
Srinagar to Kargil: 202 km
Note: These distances involve routes that are mountainous, crossing mountain passes. Travel time is for each section around 8 hours. On top of there are the numerous stops one would do to soak in the amazing vistas. Hence a very early start is recommended to reach by around 6 in the evening.
Route 2: From Manali if one wishes to reach Zanskar, then this route is recommended This route became operational only sometime in 2019-20. It starts from the town of Manali, crosses the Atal Tunnel and then from the town of Darcha one pierces through the mountains via the legendary Shinku La pass at an altitude of 5091 mts. Beyond Shinku La one descends into the Zanskar region.
Manali-Atal Tunnel-Jispa-Darcha-Shinku La-Gonbo Rangjon-Purne-Padum
This is an adventurous route with lots of mountain roads. Hence it offers a sense of thrill as one pierces into the mountains on narrow roads crossing the Shinku La Pass and then witnessing the beauty of the sacred mountain Gonbo Rangjon before eventually reaching the village of Purne in Zanskar. Worth it and this was the route that I took to make my entry into Zanskar.
Distances: Manali to Purne : 180 kms. Travel time will be around 12 hours subject to no road blockages. Better to stop and camp the night at Gonbo Rangjon. Tent facility on a paid basis is available.
Route 3: This route is a bypass route from the town of Lamayuru (this comes if you are coming from Leh town and do not wish to take route 1 and rather go off-roading to Padum. Here one will find oneself in a barren stretch crossing two mountain passes over narrow steep sections.
Lamayuru – Wanla – Sisir La-Photoksar-Singge La- Lingshed -Zangla – Padum
Note: Like I said, this is the super adventurous route and not many would like it.
Road-tripping in Zanskar HImalaya is one of the most awesome experiences you will encounter. The sense of being let loose, no anxiety about traffic, unruly people, deadlines to meet, Constant ringing of the phone and WhatsApp messages. None of this will be there. It will be just you, the views through your windows and windscreen and the desire to stop at every turn of the road to gaze in wonderment and the action of reaching to the phone to click pic after pic Yes this is the sense of contentment at the most base level when the heart is just filled up with a sense of pure vibing and happiness of being there and experiencing it through the senses.
Road-tripping has to be meaningful. I strongly believe in this aspect and thought. If this element is missing, the road trip will just be one joyful collection of days spent. While for many this is acceptable, there is a small niche of people who want more than plain enjoyment, for them a road trip is an amalgamation of the vibes of oneself seeping into the vibes of the place. only when we are receptive will we be able to grasp the actual raw beauty of the entire region. Else we will only remember the sights that we saw, the deep part will remain unknown.
My recommendation: Formally speaking as a part of my recommendation for the post Zanskar Region – My Complete Travel Guide here are my recommendations. First-time travelers can opt for Route 1 or Route 2 depending on self-driven or cab as well as days in hand. The Manali route needs acclimatization owing to the sudden altitude increase. I opted to camp the night at Gonbo Rangjon, though I did feel slight effects of AMS in the evening owing to the sudden increase in altitude.
Well, being a die-hard road tripper would always recommend for self-drive option. However, if you are not that well versed in mountain driving conditions for long hours then would suggest a taxi from Leh town or Srinagar. Pls, do note that while the Ladakh taxi union publishes the rate list for each year, Zanskar does not figure in that chart. So, one needs to negotiate with the taxi driver directly. This is an indication of how expensive the cab charges would be. Also, self-drive cabs are not allowed in the Ladakh region, hence one needs to be the owner of the vehicle to drive it. Shared taxis are an option which can be sought at Kargil and can turn out to be very economical.
What do I write or even try to describe here? Do I talk about the endless landscape or do I attempt to put into words the limitless sky seen like an umbrella over the towering mountain ranges?
It is said in the age-old folklore that in the beginning the earth was flat, and then came the Flood. When the divine waters receded, they left majestic peaks in their path. Some said that they were titanic giants petrified by ancient gods. Whatever the stories and legends, in Zanskar this story felt so true to me as my eyes soaked in magical awe-inspiring vistas.
The mystery and the sense of adventure ignited in me a reckless sense of wanderlust, the wanting of not willing to go back to my everyday life. Such was the feeling that coursed through my entire being as I travelled on the roads of Zanskar.
The rumbling of the ice, the fog & mist shroud the peaks surrounding this ice river, snow and mud. The hidden raw power is restrained beneath the surface, capable of erupting at a moment’s notice and every other living creature knows not to tread lightly on its surface. Welcome to the Drang Drung – the river of ice and snow.
The largest glacier in the Ladakh region, 23 km in length at an altitude of 4780 mts. This massive river of Ice, and mud which is the source of the Doda and Stod rivers has one unique feature. The glacier can be seen from the road itself as one moves towards the town of Padum just after crossing Rangdum. The sight will surely leave an indelible mark on your soul. Such is the raw beauty of this glacier.
Zangla is the erstwhile capital of the Zanskar region. While the Ladakhi kings and the Dogras fought for control of Ladakh and its region, the Zangla kingdom remained largely untouched for a long period.
There are three palaces, the oldest being more than 2000 years old and completely in ruins. The second one, more than 700 years old stands atop a hillock and is known as the Zangla fort. If one wants to see the inside of the place, the caretaker needs to be contacted in the nearby village for keys to the palace. However considering the state of disrepair, it is not a wise option to venture inside the dark rooms.
The Zangla Fort is a breathtaking site built precariously at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading to the Jhelum. This route used to be an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh. Thus the a need for a fort and several lookout towers. Ancient chortens are lined in the trail to the palace as well as to the Zangla village.
Zangla Palace is also associated with the Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros. He was the one who compiled the first Tibetan-to-English dictionary and spent quite several years in India and Zanskar. It is in this palace that he compiled the translation during the deep winters.
Time stands still out here, there is hardly anyone who comes to this part of the region. The kites in the blue sky and the wind among the mountains are the only companions. Lots of opportunities to ponder on so many things that touch the heart. Zangla Fort is so wrapped in a time zone, it still stands in this modern age but its end is nearing and maybe a couple of years down the palace and fort will only be the history books. Zanskar the hidden kingdom will be elusive forever.
Visiting the ancient monasteries was one of the main reasons why I wanted to explore the Zanskar region. The region is dotted with centuries-old Buddhist monasteries that act as beacons in the lives of the villages that surround them. This has been the case for centuries and nothing much has changed in 2023 as well.
Monasteries in India are globally-famous with the majority being the monasteries of Ladakh. While some monasteries are well known and visited, others are elusive and need dedicated travel plans if one wishes to reach them.
My exploration of the Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh. In the Himalayan mountains of Northern India Buddhism is a way of life. This belief is held in place by mystical crumbling hilltop monasteries located amid surreal landscapes and winding mountain roads. In some cases, trek trails lead to mystic hidden far-flung places.
The following are the Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh that I explored during my road trip into the Zanskar region.
I have written extensively on all the above monasteries out here.
I hope you can relate to what I am trying to convey, these points of interest are what I feel I should not miss especially in a short road trip/visit to the Zanskar. It is in this context that , i penned down this post titled Zanskar Region Complete Travel Guide.
In the rush to reach Zanskar, most of the first-timers or cab operators zip through a piece of paradise. The name of this paradise is Suru Valley. Suru Valley lies before the Pensi La pass when we come from Kargil.
The most important town of Suru is Sankoo and it is a well-populated town. I had heard a lot about Suru Valley. In the barren lands of this region, this is the oasis of greenery and fertility. The plantations of poplar and willow trees impact a slice of greenery along with the Suru River. Autumn in Suru is something that will still your heart with the golden hues everywhere. It will leave u mesmerised.
The entire Suru Valley is ringed with high towering Himalayan peaks on all sides with the Nun-Kun massif being the most prominent. In addition, we also have two glaciers to explore. The valley is ideal for picnicking on the banks of the Suru River in ideal temperate conditions. Camping is a popular option here along with homestay culture.
Honestly speaking Suru demands attention of its own. The ideal would be to spend a full two days in this valley to visit towns and soak in. To end the Suru Valley exploration, one needs to finish it at the town of Rangdum which is a gem in itself when it comes to natural beauty and the iconic Rangdum monastery.
Just writing about these places makes us want to immediately plan my next trip to this region. Such is the pull of this place. This Zanskar Region Complete Travel Guide is a outcome of this deep desire to write more and more about this region.
Disconnected from all that’s unnecessary, my eyes are fixed on the dying glow of the setting sun to which I am one of the few witnesses, the meals that I take are simple but in this rarified atmosphere far from modernity, it’s like having a feast in the palace. Thereupon the silence falls gradually as the movements slow down. The splendor of the summits seen offer themselves to only those who take time to let themselves be tamed.
The twin lakes of Stat Tso and Lang Tso are located at the top of Pensi La Pass. Small in dimensions when compared to the bigger lakes in the Ladakh region, however, they are exquisite in their own right. At a rough altitude of 4400 mts, standing on the top of a high altitude mountain pass with a glacier nearby on one side and the twin lakes on the other side with the Zanskar mountains in backdrop is an experience that will remain etched in the memory for a long time to come.
This town will make its footprint on your soul. There is something harsh yet attractive about this place. Cold and uninviting with hardly any decent place to stay, this aspect will make u feel miserable however the morning and evening views of the meadows and the towering mountain ranges will compensate amply for all the hardships. Rangdum is a paradox in itself however it is something to experience. Don’t make a mistake in skipping it. Many a time, you will ask yourself why in the first place are you doing something like this but then the views, ahh the views and the moment they bring will counter each negative thought.
One of the main attractions is the Rangdum monastery. Located atop a hill in the middle of nowhere. The location is so iconic that it has made the monastery reach a mystical place in the eyes of the travellers who just wish to come to this place. They come in droves to see the monastery and click the Milky Way at night with the monastery in the foreground. I think you too should do this.
Under the twinkling stars, I fall asleep thinking about the following day, a speck of dust among a group of millennial mountains. I find happiness in this pleasing simplicity.
I would say that even if one covers only a bit of the above-mentioned places/destinations spending days in the Zanskar region just soaking in the place, driving around and interacting with the locals seeing the magnificent vistas that open up is an experience in itself. The mighty Himalayas are something that will make its mark on your soul, rest assured.
Based on the above points that I have amplified; I would like to summarise the Zanskar itinerary broadly as follows
Note: Cater for time spent watching the Drang Drung glacier as well as the twin lakes. So don’t rush through. Plan the transit journey accordingly. If you have time and are open to the idea of camping, have your ride and are well acclimatized, camping at Drang Drung would be a great idea or at the twin lakes.
It’s quite easy. June to October is the slot. However, the dilemma is when during this timeslot do we plan the Zanskar Valley trip? Do we wish to see the autumn colours of Suru and Rangdum? Hey, wait do we wish to see the greens of Gonbo Rangjon or the snows of Pensi La? So, decide on this aspect and pick your slot to visit Zanskar.
Be mindful of the fact that in June the roads are still settling down after the snow melt. Hence t bound to be slushy, difficult stretches in between and the clamor of many travelers rushing in as the season has just opened. October is also a great time with clear skies but then the drama in the sky from a photographic point of view would be missing. Also, post 10th October depending on the season’s behavior snowfall can start to occur any day increasing the chance of the roads shutting down both during the exit from Zanskar as well as the exit from Ladakh.
The places mentioned above if covered properly are more than enough to form a detailed picture of Zanskar in your thoughts. If you stay longer in the region, you will get more time to soak in aspects of nature and culture. In addition, some great trekking routes in Zanskar available. The Zanskar Chadar trek ( i did it when it was not so commercialized and more open to travelers ) remains a sought-after winter trek in India.
As how I mentioned the places to stay, one will find accommodation in Padum town, Karsha, Sankoo, and Rangdum. In Padum town, I would recommend Shinku La Guest House.
This is important and I would like to list down the essentials. Remember the trick is to follow the concept of layering. A quick read on the link would be helpful. As the temperature increases the layers come off and as it drops the layers add on. In addition to this pls have comfortable shoes and socks. Sunscreen and lip balm are a must as are eye shades for the sun is too bright. Cover the throat as much as possible for Zanskar is dusty most of the time. Wide-rimmed caps are a must as are gloves for that sudden drop in temperature. The preparation for Chadar Trek is on a different level though and very extensive.
Post mid-September, carry heavy woolens and before that, one good outer layer would do as a backup. But have your inner layer and middle layer always throughout the season. Dont take Zanskar Valley weather lightly. Even if on a road trip , carrying a good sleeping bag can be a lifesaver in may situations.
Travelling by road from Srinagar or Leh town is not an issue for acclimatization happens However if one is coming from Manali, the sudden climb to Shinku La pass and then the night stay at Gonbo Rangjon is bound to induce AMS to most travelers. Hence the trick is to stay hydrated a lot throughout starting from Manali itself. Avoid a late night at Manali the previous day or liquor consumption. In case you feel symptoms of AMS at Gonbo Rangjon, then it is better to head to Purne rather than stay the night at Gonbo Rangjon.
So, remember to - Hydrate Hydrate & Hydrate
Zanskar bike trip, well it was a long-cherished desire to drive around in this region witnessing the traditions in the elusive monasteries. I had long hungered to see the Drang Drung Glacier and stand at Pensi La. The traveller tales of Rangdum had for ages motivated me to also be one of those who had driven to Rangdum and witnessed a sunrise. Zanskar expedition indeed left a deep impact on my traveller soul and it has made sure that I will be coming back to this amazing region again in the years to come. To soak with even greater detail all that this amazing place has to offer to those who are willing to understand this region and leave their every self behind. Trekking in Zanskar and Leh is an amazing option as well. This post on Zanskar Region Complete Travel Guide gets update as months go by.
It’s when we come to places like these that our heart overflows with a certain set of emotions that run free and unbidden. Long imprisoned emotions free themselves and lift the soul-filling the sails with wind and suddenly one finds the soul soaring like a bird in the wide sky, all the weight of everyday life left behind for a certain few minutes as the landscape and setting mesmerize oneself.
A road trip in Zanskar will instill an amazing sense of confidence in you and impart lessons which will come in handy in the years to come when you find yourself on narrow mountain roads once again. So, make sure you plan your next road trip to Zanskar. The roads in Zanskar are a testament to human will. They forge them with grit, will and sacrifice. Go, see the effort put in over decades. Zanskar is a place where legends and mysteries combine. Come explore Zanskar while the mystery still remains in the air. Use this Zanskar Region Complete Travel Guide to make the most of your visit to this region.
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It's a nice read , very detailed. For a first time traveler it will be easy to plan with route , what are do's & don't. Best part is the way you have pen down your experience, your journey, its astounding.
I have read all your blog this is first rating from all in the list.
thank you tisha
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