At the onset, this is an extensive narrative in the form of a complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh, India’s easternmost state. Arunachal is not something that I can easily describe, but if I am asked to, I would say it is as close to mental and physical freedom as one can feel. It is a place where time seems to diminish, but you move faster than the wind. Out in my city, life is messy, but up there life is simple. A place where things make sense. That’s why Arunachal holds so close to my heart. It’s my purpose, in a way.
Complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh
This Blog on Arunachal is not something that came out structured. It is hard to put into words but so easy to feel. Welcome to ARUNACHAL, the land of the Dawn Lit mountains. The largest of the seven sisters of North East India, this state blows your senses away if you are a nature lover or adventure seeker. Large regions remain unexplored even to this date beyond the National Highway that runs through them, teeming with flora and fauna. I am trying to impart a complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh through this narrative.
About Arunachal Pradesh
Arunachal has some massive stretches of the Himalayan ranges that run across it in addition to the forest cover. Most of the Himalayan Mountain range is virgin and rarely explored by anyone. If you are a seeker of exploring life and culture, pack your bags and head to Arunachal. The communities inhabiting this amazing land, each with its unique culture which gives them their identity. A land which offers you the chance of deep cultural immersion
All in all, Arunachal is brimming with the energy of adventure and spirituality, each aspect awaits the traveller who has that burning spirit of exploration. Arunachal Tourism is pure and refreshing to the visitor.
My early insights of Arunachal Pradesh
10 years back to date I get interested in the state of Arunachal. There used to be a guy whose travels I used to read, an avid road tripper who explored Arunachal crisscrossing its length and breadth using his Tata Safari. His travels included adventure, unique lands, lakes, and roads deep into the unknown and fascinating places. The pictures that he showcased in his blogs captured my imagination to no end. I used to spend days reading these posts again and again visualising the time when I too would visit these places that he was talking about.
It took me close to 10 years. Modernity did creep in during this intervening period, but how nature has carved Arunachal satiated my soul. I saw the natural, raw beauty and depth of cultural heritage of this region.
My name is Sumit and I am a passionate photographer from India. Travel carved all the good things that exist in me today. Went through every emotion possible and that gave me perspective over time. I now realise there is much more to travel. So now I choose to go to places where people like me generally don’t go. So I go to places – FAR FROM HOME. Arunachal is one such region.
I wish to see how far I can go in the future. Here I am in Western Arunachal, far from home and far from FINISHED. I want others to look at me, those who feel trapped, and tell themselves that look, he could, and so can I. Hence, don’t stop; there will be hindrances, but chip away at them slowly but surely and carve your path.
Arunachal – Nature’s wild Young Man
Arunachal is big, one of the last true wildernesses to exist with nature in the purest form. To explore the state, one needs time. One does not travel to Arunachal to see but rather to feel it, to know it, to live it and to understand what it means to be a part of it. And this is why you should visit it. For I promise, you would want so much more than to see Arunachal.
The state comprises mountain ranges, valleys, and the famous Lohit river. The mountain ranges and valleys make sure that there is no direct path across. One has to climb then come down on the valley floor and then again climb to the next mountain range and that is how we travel through Arunachal. I have for my better understanding divided Arunachal into four parts – West Arunachal, Central Arunachal and East Arunachal. The final part is all those places that are even more aloof and don’t figure in the above three.
Why West Arunachal ?
For my first introduction to the state, I chose to go to West Arunachal. The most famous, accessible and with the maximum number of traveller footprints in the entire state. However, one does not just pack the bags and go to Arunachal. Yes, you can pack your bags and head to places you want to visit. But I don’t want to do Hits & Misses especially when I am on a road trip with definite periods of leave taken. So, I read then reread, jotted down and then jotted down some more names of places that I came across in my reading about the West Arunachal. I then took these names up to research and read more about them. Slowly but surely over days, the region emerged to my mind’s eyes like a fog lifting the veil from the most massive rockface visible to the climber. The sheer enormity of the region and the various places that can be seen blew my mind away and the excitement built up in me like a stream bursting through the rock and increasing with every passing minute.
Notes on my road trip to North East India
My notes began to form a shape as I got down to charting a route that would take me through the prominent and not-so-prominent places of west Arunachal. This was how the road trip to West Arunachal was born. This state and Tawang remain one of the most sought-after destinations in North East. In this post, I cover the historic places of the West Kameng district that most travellers miss when they focus on reaching Tawang. I have tried to be comprehensive in building a filled canvas in the reader’s mind through this complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh.
The places that I got to reach by road and explored included
- Shergaon – quaint, breathtaking and underrated
- Dirang – Home of the Mahayana Monpas
- Bomdila – The apple Orchard of Arunachal
- Mandala Top – Spiritual retreat for the tired human soul
- Sela Pass – History personified. one of the highest motorable passes in northeast
- Tawang – The pride of India globally when it comes to Arunachal Pradesh
- Zemithang – The river swept land of majestic mountains
- Ancient Buddhist Monasteries – The undeniable link to Tibet and harmony
And of course, the route from Guwahati to Arunachal and the road exploration within the hills of Arunachal.
The concept of West Arunachal Road Trip
The above sector made this 12-day road trip epic in every sense of the word. This road trip was about exploring the raw rustic beauty of Western Arunachal Pradesh and getting a glimpse of the various historical monasteries that have woven the social fabric of this land for decades and centuries. So come with me as we delve into West Arunachal. This post also serves as information, guide, and map of the Tawang sector.
Arunachal is all about roads and paths. The only way to see this state, its mysteries, and its beauty is by road. Hence, what better than to go on a customised road trip? This is the best decisions I make during my travels. As said, life is not about what you get but what you make of it. Be inspired—that’s my mantra for you.
Complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district
How to Reach Arunachal if you are not driving
Arunachal does not have an air or rail head. The nearest airport/rail head is Tezpur or the more convenient Guwahati. Guwahati to Tawang road trips are pretty standard. From Guwahati, take a bus or cab to Tezpur. From Tezpur, we have buses to Tawang, starting early and are limited to, I think, only 2, and seating is basic.
Shared cabs start early in the morning and can be an option. However, it’s a cannonball run, and the objective is to reach Tawang. So one misses all the scenic landmarks on the way. Individual cabs are also an option but will be expensive, so take your pick.
| Distance of Guwahati to Tezpur | 185 km |
| Distance between Tezpur to Tawang | 327 km |
| Distance between Shergaon to Dirang | 80 km |
| Distance between Dirang to Sela Pass | 70 km |
| Distance between Tawang and Zemithang | 100 km |
The Journey (self-drive road expedition to Arunachal Pradesh)
The Journey starts from Kolkata and follows the well-travelled National Highway, which crosses the Gangetic plains and eventually heads into the hills at Siliguri. From Siliguri, I took the scenic route through the tea gardens of Mal Bazaar and Hashimara to enter the state of Assam at Srirampur.
From Guwahati, I digressed. Instead of the conventional route through Bhalupkong, I decided to take the lesser-travelled route, which takes me through rural landscape of Assam, into Orang National Park, crossing multiple tea gardens before heading further inwards towards the towns of Mazbhat and Kalaktang and eventually rolling into Shergaon.
How to get a permit for Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh
The Inner Line Permit checks are at Kalaktang, one of the border check posts. It is mandatory for any traveller who enters the state of Arunachal to apply for an Inner Line Permit. These permits specify the places that one wishes to visit and the duration of stay. One needs to apply online for these and carry them at all times.
The first glimpse of Arunachal; Land of Dawn Lit Mountains
I still vividly remember the first visual of Arunachal. I had just crossed the town of Mazbaat in Assam, which is characterized by rice fields all around, flat terrain, and small houses. Far on the horizon, there arose a wall of mountain ranges. In the afternoon underneath a cover of summer clouds, a mixture of Grey & blue appeared. They were continuous, tall, and silent, and the small single-lane road was pointed in their direction. The excitement in me multiplied so many times. It had been a long journey from the banks of the Ganges in Kolkata to eventually reach this place. A reminder of the length of the journey and crossing of so many terrains in between.
As part of the overall theme of this post, I have jotted down all the essential information at selected locations within the post for ease of reference for readers who would like to plan their own complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh.
The moment I entered the boundary of Arunachal, almost immediately, I started to climb upwards. The terrain change was immediate. Flat terrain fields gave way to forested-covered mountains all around as I moved. The change is so pronounced that it impacts the traveller, reminding them that Arunachal has arrived.
Gyuto Monastery on a silent, quiet afternoon
As the road moved from the Kalaktang checkpoint towards Shergaon, I decided to detour and see the first monastery of the trip – Gyuto Monastery. The Gyuto Monastery was established in 1974 by the monks of the Gelug sect who had fled from Tibet and reached India. The original monastery was established in the 14th century in Tibet by the great Buddhist teacher Kunga Dhondup. It was based on the Gelug sect of Buddhism and was a great centre for traditions on tantric learning.
Till today the monks at Gyuto Monastery follow this tradition and are in perfect harmony with the local inhabitants of the region and surrounding villages. It is close to 4 in the evening as I reach the monastery. The wind has picked up and with the overcast sky, there is this deep sombre vibe. I enter the premises of the monastery and after seeing the stupas and the chortens make my way to the main prayer hall where a resident monk is kind enough to open the same for me to have a visit inside.
Monasteries (across Ladakh )have always had a profound impact on me. Most of the time I visit offbeat aloof ones where the vibe of solitude is heavy. This vibe connects with me a lot, and the prayer hall of the monasteries, with the heavy essence of incense and oil lamps, is the hypnotic doorway that connects me deeply with them. Buddhist culture has significantly shaped Arunachal. No wonder Arunachal is known as the “land of Monpas.”
After filming at Gyuto Monastery, I bid goodbye to the monk and make my final way to Shergaon. The moody climatic vibe and the road through conifer forests with clouds coming low made the final stretch memorable.
Shergaon, where moments can be counted
I arrived in Shergaon around 430 in the evening. Tired and cold, I needed hot tea and stretched my legs. The homestay is on the National Highway, which felt like a sparse-traffic town road. Sitting on benches outside the homestay, I soaked in the vibe of Arunachal and Shergaon.
Best time to Visit Arunachal Pradesh (a complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh)
The window slot from April to Early June, followed by October to November, is the most suitable time to visit West Arunachal. Avoid Winter, as the snow packs in and the travel schedule goes haywire. Monsoons are all about heavy rains and landslides.
Exploring in & around Shergaon, Arunachal Pradesh/Trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district
In the morning, I decided to visit the Yokmuzor Buddha Park. The Buddha Heritage Park project is a one-of-a-kind endeavor in the entire region. Conceptualized by eminent personalities of the region, this 92-foot statue of Lord Buddha in Vitarka(teaching ) mudra overlooking the valley below is an inspiring site indeed.
From here, I visited the Mushaksing Gompa, one of the smallest gompas in the region. It is generally closed most of the time, but the local village can be approached to open it. The road to this place is all uphill and narrow, perfectly in sync with the aloofness of the locations.
Next, it was time to head to Chillipam Gompa. This gompa is located on top of a hillock near Rupa town. While this monastery remains largely secluded, I could not gather much about its origins. The hillock offers close to 270 degrees of the surrounding valleys and mountain ranges. It is one of the prettiest monasteries that I have seen. This kind of Buddhist art form is rarely seen in the monasteries based in Ladakh or Himachal. Let the pictures show you what I mean.
By the time I had visited the above places, it was approaching evening. I spent time shooting footage in the natural pristine of Shergaon Valley and surrounding areas, soaking in the feeling of being in spacious Arunachal.
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Next, as a part of the complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh, I will move further inwards into the West Kameng district as I head towards Dirang town, Bomdila Pass, and the magnificent Mandala Top.
Moving inwards into the West Kameng district Arunachal Pradesh
The drive to Dirang from Shergaon is 80 km long and crosses the important town of Rupa, and after that, we head into Bomdila town, crossing the Bomdila Pass situated at a height of 7000 feet. Bomdila remains one of the most important towns on this side of Sela Pass and is the HQ of the West Kameng distt.
Please note that the climb to Bomdila town is all uphill from the valley below and on narrow roads. I visited the Bomdila Gompa, also called Gontse Gaden Rabgyel Ling Monastery or GRL Gompa. Indeed, it is a magnificent monastery situated on a hill overlooking the town of Bomdila spread out below. With a backdrop of even greater mountain ranges, the monastery is truly a sight to behold. Built-in 1965, this monastery was designed on the lines of the Tsona Gonste monastery of southern Tibet.
I have noticed that most of the major monasteries in India are built on the lines of major and spiritually powerful monasteries in Tibet. This makes me wonder about the aura and vibe of those monasteries in Tibet and how it would feel to be in their presence—something to desire for the future.
I spent quite some time at the monastery sitting in the prayer hall. The sun was shining bright and the town of Bomdila was spread out below offering a soothing view with the enclosure of the high mountain ranges all around. This is so important in road travel; to sit and soak in the place or monument becomes a part of the memory you carefully cherish.
Bomdila Town and places to see/ Trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district
From here I decided to go and visit the Bomdila War Memorial situated at 9000 feet where the battle between the Chinese invaders and the Indian defenders took place in the Sino-Indian War 1962. This post remains the last Indian post to fall to the Chinese invaders. The entire road leading to the memorial speaks about the valour of the Indian soldiers in their quest to defend the Indian motherland. The memorial constructed in the backdrop of the Himalayan peaks is a poignant reminder of the sacrifices that the soldiers have made to the motherland in faraway places, the unsung heroes who ensured that India stands free and tall in today’s world.
From here we went towards the town of Dirang. The weather is pleasant, and the mood is upbeat as I travel through magnificent Arunachal, a dream coming true. Before entering the city of Dirang, I had already decided to visit something unique, Mandala Top. I detoured the National Highway and plunged into the side roads that led to this elusive and amazing place. The road meandered and constantly climbed into the surrounding mountains, and after close to 40 km, I reached Mandala Top. Look at the pictures to understand the beauty of this place.
Mandala Top and the town of Dirang
By the way, I have seen old dead trees still standing erect, presenting a landscape that deeply connects to me, and I saw this landscape only in Arunachal. There is something deeply content in such a thought-provoking frame. Anyway, Madala Top is home to 108 Buddhist stupas built in a circular formation on the top of a mountain. Each stupa has been consecrated with a Buddhist mantra written on it thus signifying the prayers that are being given to the Universe. This place has become a spiritual centre in a true sense as it calls out to the believers to come and mix their aura and energies with the energy that is flowing out here amidst nature and the fluttering of prayer flags in the cold Arunachal wind coming down from the surrounding Himalayan peaks.
Just coming here was sufficient for me to embark on this journey to West Arunachal, so far away from the place where I live my everyday life. Moments like this matter the most and are priceless. As a gift, I found myself documenting so many interesting snippets of information/knowledge that would prove immense handy while I compile the complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh.
As the evening came to a close, I eventually found myself entering the town of Dirang towards my homestay for the night. A day well spent and with so many fulfilling experiences, it was worth every km of the road travelled.
What to see in Dirang/ Trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district
It was the time of the wolf dawn when I woke up and went outside. A time when there is the faintest glimmer of the approaching dawn and one can see the presence of it even in the dark chill that is present all around. Taking a deep breath, I looked into the direction of dawn as it broke over the mountains of Arunachal.
A moment in time; a reminder of the beauty that I was surrounded with, standing amidst nature in her absolute still moments before the sun made its presence felt. The world was waking up as a new day dawned and for me, it was the promise of yet another bouquet of splendid hours spent exploring and adventure. For starters, I was raring to visit the TDL Monastery ( Thupsung Dhargye Ling) which translates to “Place of Flourishing of Buddha’s Speech”. This gompa was founded by His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama himself. It is a sight to behold, built in the traditional style using bold red and yellow colours. Overlooking the town of Dirang spread out below.
The central prayer hall was richly decorated with beautiful murals as well as Chukhors (these are cylindrical garments hung from the ceiling). The multitude of chortens outside impart a highly deep spiritual feel to the entire monastery. I would recommend a visit to this place if you visiting Dirang.
Eastern Himalaya introduction
After the monastery visit, it was time to embark on one of the most significant days of the road trip. Today, I will be seeing the places of valour of the Indian Army, saying hello to the mighty Sela Pass, and gazing at the pristine beauty of Sela Lake. At the same time, my driving skills would be tested to the optimum on a never-travelled route on a personal level, ending the day in the Himalayan town of Tawang. I was all ready for today. Can any day be more power-packed than this??? It was also time to enter the Tawang district, leaving West Kameng behind.
Road Tripping in Arunachal
To start, we exited the town of Dirang and were soon on the outskirts of town, cruising on the Trans Arunachal Highway network dedicated solely to Arunachal Pradesh. This strategically important highway has been connecting major regions of the state in recent years. This highway enhances Indian military capabilities in combating Chinese aggression in the Eastern Sector. Some lessons from 1962 have not been forgotten, even an inch by the Army, even if the nation has moved on.
The Nyukmadong War Memorial comes 17 km after exiting the town of Dirang. This is a must-stopover no matter how much in a hurry one is. This memorial overlooks the famous battleground of the 18 Nov 1962 battle. It nestles in a three-tiered terraced landscape with beautiful coniferous trees planted around it. The main memorial is a 25-foot-high Buddhist Chorten conforming to the local traditions of Buddhism.
The entire memorial is built in the Buddhist tradition manner with both sides of the memorial listing the names of Officers and jawans who were martyred here on that fateful day. A visit to this memorial invariably turns into a solemn occasion as it was for me and for everyone else who comes here. The sacrifice and tales of valour buried under everyday life suddenly burst out, and we become aware of the blood sprinkled by those who stood guard to defend our motherland when she demanded protection.
Road Journey to Sela Pass
Post the memorial, the highway got serious as the incline was relentless with a multitude of hairpin bends. Now there were small villages scattered in the countryside but the highway and the land around it was packed with army settlements as they controlled the entire access henceforth. The importance of the highway could be sensed by everyone. The road continued to climb as I shifted to even lower gears on Viktor to ensure that the climb was not too heavy on him. There was no hurry as we were making good time.
The clouds were rolling in and out constantly, a play displaying the enormity of the landscape all around and then immediately shrouding major chunks of it to leave one in a daze concerning the gravity of the landscape that was being climbed. Words cannot describe the feeling that I was experiencing in this particular section. Adventure at its peak I would say, how was I to know that even greater heights of adventure were awaiting in the days ahead but more on that later. For now, I was soaking in these magical moments.
Eventually, as we climbed higher, the snow became permanent and deep all over. The Army kept the road clear by using road-clearing equipment as it snaked relentlessly toward the famed SELA PASS.
Strategic and historic Sela
There it was – SELA. SELA, that Monpa community girl who during the 1962 Indo-Chinese war helped the sole surviving army man Jaswant Singh Rawat (Maha Vir Chakra Awardee) in holding this crucial pass against sustained Chinese aggression. Eventually, after 72 hrs the Chinese realised that there was only one fighter opposing them, stormed the post and killed RAWAT as well as SELA. The Indian Army in gratitude and recognition named this high-altitude pass SELA.
Thus, Sela Pass, which connects the strategic town of Tawang to the rest of India remains one of the most strategic mountain passes in the country at an altitude of 13700 feet. Snowbound throughout the year, the Pass has company in the form of Sela Lake, a turquoise blue watered lake that shimmers like a jewel in this part of the Himalayas.
What a feeling it was to reach here with Viktor. This moment lies embedded in history for eternity. I cannot put in words the gush of emotions that flowed through my heart beating out here. And even more, driving out here for the very first time. Now that’s what road trips are all about—the surge of accomplishment and contentment that fills the heart with dopamine and goodwill.
Jaswant Garh Memorial
After spending quite some time out here, it was time to cross over and head downwards towards Tawang but first I was going to stop at Jaswant Singh Memorial built in memory of Jaswant Singh Rawat. It would have been a gross transgression to cross the memorial and not pay respect to this hero of the Indian Army who stood his ground and fought solo knowing how the end would eventually be. So many stories in the last few days on the valour of so many unsung heroes that my heart was heavy proud sombre and elated at the same time. A heady mix of emotions flows through.
Jaswant Singh Rawat, how can I not talk about him? Alone, with a dwindling quantity of ammunition, stood alone as he fought off the Chinese counterattacks. Thus, stopping the Chinese aggression from crossing Sela pass. Eventually, the Chinese realised there was no massive army opposing them but rather one single fighter and decided to attack from all sides available. It is said that Jaswant Singh killed 300 soldiers in that long standoff lasting over 72 hours when he saw that the Chinese had reached his post and would overpower him any moment, he decided to shoot himself.
Bravery and sacrifice on lonely evenings
The Chinese were so furious with this act, that they chopped off his head and took it with them. Later at the end of the hostilities, they returned the severed head along with a brass bust of his head recognising and honouring the courage and determination of the Indian army soldier Jaswant Singh Rawat. My eyes fill with tears as I write this, what courage what resilience what willpower. More than 40 years have passed, and local folklores talk about the spirit of Jaswant Singh, who still inhabits this region, as well as the forests and paths. The Indian Army built the Jaswant Singh memorial in his honour which is a must-visit.
From this memorial, the town of Twang is 60 km away, and one descends rapidly to the valley floor. My road trip into Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh was shaping out quite well till date. It was evening as I entered the town of Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh and made my way to Khum homestay. One of the best homestays that I have come across. The hospitality of Mr and Mrs Tashi, was the icing on the cake of the basic but comfortable facilities offered
Entering Tawang Town
The evening was spent talking about the region, listening to tales of the past and soaking in the feeling of coming to someplace historic – TAWANG.
Tawang—The town is like a jewel of West Arunachal, a prized possession coveted by the Chinese and India. The struggle to own it is so very real. It is visible in the massive deployment of armed personnel in the border zones. Like Jerusalem was in medieval times or Rome and Cairo, Tawang is an oasis and beacon of light to the entire region around. So is Tawang, the seat of power of West Arunachal.
Tawang is the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama. Hence has a deep-rooted spiritual significance to the Buddhist community here. It is said that Tawang was founded in the early 17th century. Ta-Wang translates into “that chosen by the horse”.
Complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh
Tawang places to see
Tawang travel guide. The plan was simple: I wanted to visit the Tawang monastery before venturing to see anything else. Twang Monastery remains the largest Buddhist monastery in India. Founded in 1680, its Buddhist name means “the divine paradise of complete victory.” The monastery is situated at an elevation of 10,000 feet and has a commanding view of the town of Tawang spread out below in the Tawang Chu Valley.
The monastery is three stories high and consists of a vast network of buildings. Close to 400 monks stay here, and the young monks are schooled here. The monastery is a treasure trove of paintings called thangkas and murals. In addition, over 200 rare scriptures are stored here. There is so much to see here that even one full day would be insufficient. The central prayer hall is so tastefully and richly decorated that it draws the visitor into an awe-silence.
I spent quite some time here, including listening to the young monks recite their morning prayers and watching the senior monks offer prayer in the central prayer hall. After some time, it was time for me to go, and with a joyful, content heart, I left Tawang Monastery and made my way to plan the day.
In & around Tawang places to see
Today, I visited the gigantic Longbutse Buddha statue located at one end of Tawang town in a direct line of sight to the Twang Monastery. It is a 50-foot Buddha statue in a lotus position overlooking the town of Tawang spread out below. The backdrop is the mountains that form the passage to Bum La Pass.
From here I ventured towards Urgelling monastery. This small monastery hardly on the lines of the more famous ones is easy to miss unless one knows about it. Urgelling Gompa is the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama, so now you can imagine the significance of this place. There is something mystical in its aura. Surrounded by trees on its perimeter, the monastery has chortens made traditionally in white, which impacts the visitor. Tibetan paintings, called Thangkas, are made to adorn the prayer halls. These come in use during festivals and prayer ceremonies. Today, only a part of the monastery remains standing, while the rest was destroyed in various wars fought around here. There are too many monasteries in and around Tawang which can be visited. The presence of Buddhism is felt in every walk of life out here.
From there I decided to go for lunch at a spot overlooking the town away from the hustle and bustle. The hours passed by sitting and listening to music and watching the town of Tawang spread below and the mountains just rising sharply behind me within say 100 mts. Such an immersive experience it was.
Tawang War Memorial
Post lunch headed towards Tawang War Memorial. Tawang war memorial dedicated to the fallen heroes of the Indo-China War of 1962 is built in the traditional Buddhist style and is called the Namgyal Chorten. It has a 40-foot wall etched with the names of all the soldiers who were martyred during the war. The memorial has been designed using Buddhist elements and invokes a sense of peace and gratitude.
This picturesque memorial has a calming and serene atmosphere and from its grounds, the snowcapped mountains and rugged hills can be seen all around. Surrounding the stupa are the national flags as well as the flags of the Indian Army and Air Force along with the flags of the 27 regiments that fought the war. The memorial is built in memory of the 2420 soldiers who laid down their lives in the defence of the motherland with the gratitude of a nation which says –“ Their names liveth for evermore”.
This is how I ended my day at Tawang. Tomorrow, I am scheduled to travel towards the lakes of Tawang and Bum La pass at the Indi-Tibet border, but more on that in the succeeding notes.
Beyond Tawang towards Bum La
The next morning, I saw a hiccup in the plans. It had been snowing the previous day ahead of Y junction towards Bum La. Now, the roads are all single-lane and narrow, used by the army as well as civilian traffic until the border post. Naturally, the Army takes precedence; heavy trucks transport material and men with less manoeuvrability take even more precedence. This situation resulted in the single road going up towards Y Junction getting completely packed by incoming and outgoing traffic in snowy slushy conditions.
Hearing this, I knew I was not getting into the chaos. Which would only result in me straining Viktor, wasting good hours trying to figure a way back, or worse, getting stuck for hours and seeing nothing much. So this called for a reanalysis. Fortunately, it is my habit to research. I have an overall idea of the routes in the region in my head. This helped me a lot this time.
So, we embarked on an adventurous route. We drove towards the town of Zemithang, around 100 km away. From there, we decided to climb up towards T gompa and Sangetsar Lake. Once we reach Sangetsar Lake, we will decide whether to push towards Y junction and Bum La.
Exploring towards Zemithang
This is the route that I used. Note that it is highly offbeat, especially from Zemithang to T Gompa. It is said to have 66 hairpin bends in a 30 km stretch.
The added advantage is that I saw even more of Arunachal, including the Gorshen Gompa, which I will briefly describe. Complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh. Bookmark this post for future reference.
From the town of Tawang, I quickly turned back on the same road I had used to approach the town entrance. Once on the outskirts, I took the route towards the town of Lumla. It is to the southwest of Tawang close to the Bhutan border and just 40 km from the Tibetan-occupied region. One has to remember that when His Holiness the 14 Dalai Lama came to India, it was through this route.
Dolma Tara Devi, Lumla
Before reaching Lumla I paid my respects to something spiritual and magnificent. A visit to Dolma Tara Devi (in white colour) constructed overlooking the vast forested mountains bordering Bhutan.
The Dolma Tara Devi statue houses the prayer hall underneath the statue itself, indeed an awesome construction. A bit more about the Tara Devi, the Jetsun Dolma is regarded as a female Boddhisatva in Mahayana Buddhism. In Buddhism White Tara devi represents maternal compassion and healing. She is associated with the practice of Dharma and progress ahead on the path of spiritual fulfilment.
Watching her statue in the mountains early in the morning was a soul-stirring experience. From here, my path now turned sharply towards the border of Tibet as Zemithang was my destination. The road snaked through forested mountain slopes with rivers in the valley below and hardly any traffic. There are few villages in the mountains. The road is largely lonely and devoid of any shops or settlements. Most belong to the Border Roads staff and the army units.
Before reaching Zemithang, we reached the village of Gorshen and stopped there. I was going to see the Gorshen Gompa.
Gorshen Gompa Arunachal Pradesh
I stood face to face watching one of the oldest Stupas that I have ever seen. The 7th-century Gorshen Stupa is the only kind in India. One of the three in the world, with the other two being in Nepal ( Syambhu Stupa) and Bhutan. There is also a small gompa next to the Stupa. This Gompa is said to house ancient texts and scriptures and is sealed from the outside world. Only once in 12 years is this opened for the senior lamas to revisit these scriptures.
Some mystical place I found myself in. Considering the distances involved in reaching this place, hardly 0.5 % of the tourists visiting Tawang come out here. And even less, go ahead towards the town of Zemithang. Here we were, attempting to go even further ahead of Zemithang with no clear knowledge of what lay ahead, not even a photograph I had come across on the net.
Zemithang town approached
So it was early afternoon when I finally made my way into the town of Zemithang, and it was a task to find the homestay where I had spoken on the phone to an unknown person. No one could recognise the name of the homestay, and with a patchy phone network, it took me some time before I could figure it out. A basic homestay, but then a roof over the head, and a hot meal in the stomach were all I was looking forward to.
In the approaching dusk, I walked on quiet roads, soaking in the feeling of having arrived at some place I had never heard of, so far away from everything familiar. Truly, road trips like these are so important because they allow one to reach deep inside the subconscious mind and heart to visit some subtle thoughts and perspectives.
Places to Stay (my recommendations) Complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh
While there are a large number of options, I stayed at the following
| Shergaon: Lamu Zhurkhi Homestay (****) |
| Dirang: Anna Homestay (****) |
| Tawang: Khum Homestay (*****) |
| Zemithang: Yangzon Homestay (**) |
The next morning was an all-focus day as we started the climb to Sangetsar Lake and T gompa from Zemithang. How do I describe the journey? It was eerie, mystical, adventurous, and soul-stirring all rolled into one. The climb to the top was relentless, with 66 hairpin bends. Viktor was straining, and I eased him as much as possible with the lower gears and minimal accelerator. One side was the drop to the bottom, while the other rose giant vertical rock faces whose top could not even be seen.
With no network and a prefilled destination map, I headed deep inside. Once I reached the top of the incline, I was greeted by herds of Yaks, all running free and wild. It was like some movie set, with rolling meadows and boundary hills, green grass, and a beautiful road snaking in between as I headed ahead in search of Sangetsar Lake.
The final stretch towards Sangetsar Lake is again an even higher climb on broken roads, and the snow is visible here, indicating how much we have travelled. Eventually, I reached T gompa first and up ahead lay Sangetsar Lake.
Taktsang Gompa Arunachal Pradesh
T Gompa or Taktsang Gompa is one of those mystical spiritual gompas that very few have heard of or visited. Perched at the edge of a cliff with a dizzying drop below and overlooking the entire valley right back to Zemithang. It is a spectacular place. Deeply emanating a spiritual vibe, it was one of the most spiritual experiences of the whole trip. Consecrated during the 8th century by the spiritual master Padmasambhava. It is a three-tiered monastery, with each tier dedicated to a spiritual master. It would be best if you were here to understand what my words are trying to convey. Even the act of lighting an oil lamp seemed so spiritual out here, in the middle of heavy snow-clad mountains, conifer-filled mountain slopes and deep valleys.
Sangetsar Lake
From here, I moved towards Sangetsar Lake, at an altitude of 12,500 feet. As I approached the lake, the snow got dense and heavy. It indicated what lay ahead. I decided not to cross the lake to go towards the Y junction some 20 km ahead. Rather to see the lake and return to the same place I had come up.
Sangetsar Lake is only 6 km from Indo-China. It was created on account of an earthquake that struck this region some decades back. One of the most aloof and pretty yet sombre-looking lakes. It remains nestled deep in the mountains that will guard her for eternity. This lake welcomes only those who have the resolve to reach her no matter the cost. It is a fantastic place for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. What made it even more overwhelming was the route that we decided to take to reach here, a clear deviation from the standard route that was advised by all. I spent quite some time here, imprinting the landscape and the vibe into my subconscious. I walk a bit ahead to assess the situation and see that the entire road ahead is snowed. An army post informs me that 2 km ahead, the route is closed.
Exiting from Zemithang sector
Finally, it was time to head back, passing once again through the mystical, lonely route towards Zemithang. When I reached the homestay, I took a deep breath and looked up toward the mountaintops from where I had just come. There is a long pause. I now realize that a major aspect completes.
The next day, it was time to head back to Tawang and eventually begin exiting from Arunachal. So this was my exploration of West Arunachal, which spanned close to two weeks. Thus, concluding complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh.
My thoughts on this Trip to Tawang and West Kameng district
So, if you ask me about my thoughts. Let me put it this way: The Army says to its fallen heroes, “We will not let your sacrifices go to waste; we promise.” This is that Land. Would you not wish to mark your presence in this land ? Where our fellow citizens killed and died on that today, so that You and I can soak in the air of freedom amidst the breathtaking mountains?
Travel Essentials for Trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district
- Warm clothing and covered clothing is a must.
- Glasses and hats are essential
- Hydration is the key to avoid AMS
- Avoid alcohol
- BSNL works in the Zemithang sector
- Buy memorabilia from Tawang local market
- Start the day early and end early
- The weather in Tawang during peak winter is extreme, as is the case with monsoons.
- Tawang tourism is pretty developed now, so do look forward to this part
In case you have made it till here, I would recommend a watch of the entire journey of 12 days in the 8 part series on YouTube titled ” Road Tripping to West Arunachal “
Summary
Article Name
Trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district/Arunachal Pradesh : Road Trip to North East India
DescriptionA complete trip guide to Tawang and West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh, with all major places/destinations covered
Author
sumit walia
Publisher Name
traveldreams.live
Publisher Logo
Detailed and yes what a lovely experience you had
Your dedication shines through. You are talented and gifted. I love your unique perspective ❤️