Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley Ladakh

My exploration of the Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley Ladakh.  In the Himalayan mountains of Northern India Buddhism is a way of life. This belief is held in place by mystical crumbling hilltop monasteries located amid surreal landscapes and winding mountain roads. In some cases, trek trails lead to unique hidden far-flung places. Ladakh has burst onto the travel and adventure scene for quite some years now. It is regions like Zanskar that still demand preparation and make the traveller stop and stare at what unfolds. Zanskar Leh Ladakh remains an enigma.

It was close to 11 in morning as i find myself on a dusty trail leading into the distant horizon. On both sides of me are huge mountains rising up into the sky . There is absolute stillness as i stand and look at some Buddhist chortens in the distance. Not soul in sight and i wonder why have these been made here ; what lies the significance. I look around and understand that this is the Zanskar , isolated rugged and unique all rolled into one.

Zanskar remains a secluded and stunning part of the Greater Himalayan Region. One of the very last frontiers where roads are still being constructed. This high-altitude valley offers one dominant thing among many others. It provides “Isolation”, right in front making one aware of it immensely. Not the negative isolation of the cities where everyone is in a cocoon. It is rather the positive isolation that calms the mind and soothes the soul.

I spent close to 10 days exploring the Zanskar valley. There are indeed many places to visit in Zanskar Valley. The list of things to do in Zanskar ranges from photography to meditation. My time here was one of the most memorable experiences of my road trip journey. Do keep reading to find out why!!

Zanskar, Ladakh

It was the year 2014 when I first heard about the Zanskar region. Back then only two to three places had been explored by the very adventurous. This included primarily the towns of Rangdum and Padum. I was mesmerized and fascinated by the accounts of those who had travelled there. Hungered for my chance as well. I did visit Ladakh three times post 2014 however Zanskar remained out of reach for various reasons. It was not until 2023 that I was fully prepared in all aspects to set foot in this hallowed region.

Zanskar Valley – the final frontier in 2024

The reader must try to visualise the Zanskar region. On Instagram, one would see many clips and photos of Ladakh. But believe me, Zanskar though being a part of Ladakh is a different creature. The ruggedness of the region, basic infrastructure in the region and the sense of being on one’s own for long stretches of the dusty unpaved road immediately make one recalibrate their approach to visiting Ladakh.

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My blog focuses quite a bit on the ancient history, the art of India, among off beat travel. In addition to travel and exploring offbeat places, I am also interested in visiting and increasing my awareness of Historical institutions and places within India. Do subscribe to this blog for more content on similar lines.

What to do and see in Zanskar Valley

There is a whole list of things to do in Zanskar Valley. There are several reasons to visit the Zanskar region. The ones which come to my mind are: –

• Stunning crystal rivers
• High-altitude remote lakes
• Historic Buddhist monasteries
• Thrilling roads
• Awe-inspiring landscapes
• Glaciers which are alive and young
• Culture and way of life

Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh

From the above, I will in this post speak about the Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh. Visiting the ancient monasteries was one of the main reasons why I wanted to explore the Zanskar region. The region is dotted with centuries-old Buddhist monasteries that act as beacons in the lives of the villages that surround them. This has been the case for centuries and nothing much has changed in 2023 as well.

In Buddhism, circumbulation of and pilgrimage to holy mountains is a way of paying homage. The region of the monasteries are considered to be the holy abode of Buddha and Bodhisattvas. It is all about deep belief and faith.

Monasteries in India are globally-famous with the majority being the monasteries of Ladakh. While some monasteries are well known and visited, others are elusive. These need dedicated travel plans if one wishes to reach them.

The following are the Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh that I explored during my road trip into the Zanskar region.

Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar

Phugtal Monastery is housed in the remote corner of the Lungnak Valley. This is part of the southeastern region of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh. Phugtal Monastery remains one of the most enchanting and sought-after places to explore in the entire region.

The Zanskar Valley in Ladakh is classified as a remote valley. The Phuktal Gompa situated in a rarefied location emanates a vibe of spiritual significance and self-learning. A site where, in ancient times monks used to shelter and mediate to find their inner selves. This monastery draws visitors each year. Those who are willing to reach this remote corner of India and trek the last few km to reach the monastery nestled high up in the sandstone cliffs.

The Gompa stands on the cliff of a natural gorge on the banks of the Lingti-Tsarap River which merges into the Lungnak River at Purne flowing towards Padum. The gompa looks like a honeycomb structure on the edge of the cliff. It is supposed to be built on the edifice of a natural cave high up the cliff side. It was told to me by the monks that Phug = cave and Tal = liberation. Hence legends speak of rarified Buddhist teachers who lived in this cave hundreds of years ago trying to find the answers to the various questions that govern human life.

Historically speaking the monastery was founded in the 15^th century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo, a Tibetan Buddhist spiritual master. The Buddhist master was a follower of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism and was ardent in his commitment to spreading Buddhism in this part of Ladakh.

Coros visited Phugtal Gompa and stayed the entire winter. As I stood at the edge of the monastery looking into the valley curving itself, the shimmering blue-green river was ever lively as it must have been on the day when Alexander Coros would have gazed down upon it. Nothing much changes in this part of the world until nature wills it. Even then the transition is so slow that it takes decades.

Karsha Gompa,Zanskar

Karsha Gompa located in the Padum Valley of Zanskar region was visited one early winter morning. The end of the summer season was approaching and the Old Man of Winter was waking up slowly to once again visit this part of the world and with him would come the immense white out that would engulf and show to every living being out here what winter was capable of. But for now, that day was still some weeks away, the sun was still strong as I put my foot inside Karsha Gompa.

Karsha Gompa was founded in the 10^th century by Phagspa Shesrap under the Gelugpa Order of Buddhist school. It is the largest and most important monastery in the Zanskar region. Attributed to Padmasambhava, it houses the Avalokitesvara Temple as well.

Built against the backdrop of a mountain and overlooking the village of Karsha that stands spread out below and in front sentinels of range after range of Himalayan mountains. The monastery serves as a beacon to all in this valley. Close to 100 monks study and live here.

The gompa has been constructed and new structures have been added on over the years. This is a feature common for all prominent monasteries. So, one would see the entire monastery like a fortress with deep set windows, white against black. The lanes are narrow and young monks scurry about giggling and talking at the same time while the older monks generally walk slowly immersed in their prayer chants. The bright maroon cloaks contrast ever so sharply against the white walls. Huge dogs, a common sight in this part of the world look at everything and the visitors alike with deep eyes that have seen the winters as well as hardship out here. It’s a look not to be taken lightly.

Like most of these monasteries, there are places still that are open to visitors and there are rooms that are too sacred to be seen by those who are not yet indoctrinated into the life of Buddhism. One can visit the chorten that houses the mummified remains of Lama Rinchen Zangpo. Beautifully preserved in a wooden box with silver linings. He is regarded as a great Yogi who translated various Buddhist texts into Tibetan during the era of the second diffusion of Buddhism. It is said that he was principal in the establishment of over 100 monasteries in this lifetime.

Then there is the prayer hall which can be visited where all the monks assemble for the morning and evening prayers accompanied by the chanting and beating of drums and trumpets. The library housing rare manuscripts and thangkas is also worth visiting though they are preserved behind glass casings. It is said that the thangkas depict through pictures and paintings the life incidents of the Buddhist masters, just like the rock sculpture carvings seen on Indian temples.

The view from Karsha Monastery especially in the evening of the setting sun and incoming desk is awe-inspiring. The entire Zanskar range is visible as the sun slowly sets. The clear sky gets transformed into a multitude of hues of orange and yellow. It is simply majestic and worth every effort taken to visit Zanskar. Indeed Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh are like silent aura emitting centres existing in a time warp.

Bardhan Gompa, Zanskar

Established in the 17^th century, Bardhan Gompa is situated on the way to the town of Padum. It was my first gompa that I explored in the Zanskar region and the way it has been built on a single craig of rock is truly spectacular for the first-time visitor.

The main feature of this monastery is the central prayer hall which is quite big and all the other structures are established around it. There are close to 45 monks who live here and practise the Dugpa-Kargyud school of Buddhism.

There were hardly any visitors when I visited the monastery. I visited the prayer hall, the library where I could see the scrolls, the kitchen where the mid-morning tea was being prepared in addition to the status of various Buddhist masters in the rooms. Speaking to the monks out there, it was quite interesting to know their outlook towards the various visitors that visited their part of the world and also how life has changed for them over the years. Modernity has touched even them, with something as simple as the internet which was a thing unheard of just a couple of years back. The impetus that the government and administration are giving in connecting these regions to the main mainstream is commendable and required in terms of better healthcare, education and infrastructure.

Walking in the winter sun and entering the hallowed precincts of the monasteries was indeed a different vibe. Ideas differ however the intent is the same. In this continuous cycle of birth and being drawn to some place thousands of kms away is like having a connect in some other life.

The thing about monasteries is that they aim to be self-sufficient in terms of basic needs of survival including food, shelter and medicines. Most of the monasteries have lands where crops are grown by the monks themselves that serve the needs of the monks. Schooling is often partially supported by the administration and various organizations.

Stongdey Monastery, Zanskar

Stongdey Monastery was founded in 1052 AD by the Tibetan Lama Lhodak Marpa. The white-walled monastery is constructed in the classic Tibetan style of architecture. Strategically situated at the very top of a rocky cliff, the monastery offers some mind-numbing views of the entire Zanskar region spread out in front as far as the eye can see.

I still remember the climb to the monastery, the winding road hugging the sides of the mountains steep and narrow as we drove up in low gears utilising all the torque and power available. The wind was fierce up at the top with the prayer flags fluttering wildly and loudly but inside the monastery, there was a calmness as the monks went about their schedule. It was a very peaceful vibe indeed.

The highlight of the monastery is the central prayer hall known as Gon Khang. There are close to 60 monks who stay in the monastery even in the winter. During the winter the monastery gets isolated from the villages down at the valley floor. There is no way to reach the monastery once the snow starts building up. The monks stay the entire winter detached from the outside world watching the Zanskar region turn into a white kingdom and unassailable. Such a poignant thought indeed.

It’s when we come to places like these that our heart overflows with a certain set of emotions that run free and unbidden. Long imprisoned emotions free themselves and lift the soul-filling the sails with wind and suddenly one finds the soul  soaring like a bird in the wide sky, all the weight of everyday life left behind for a certain few minutes as the landscape and setting mesmerise oneself

I would say take the effort and come to Zanskar. Do visit the Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh, and spend some time walking through them and listening to the monks. The moments will be remembered once you are back in the cities and in the daily grind.

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Dzongkul Gompa, Zanskar

It is hidden to most and a majority do not make the effort to reach here because it is lonely and aloof to come out here in the barrenness of the Zanskar mountains.

Dzongkul monastery is built in a spectacular cave, on the Padum-Kishtwar trekking route just before the ascent to Omasi La pass. Situated like a swallow’s nest on the rock face with the cliff overhang right over it.

The monastery is associated with the Maha yogi Mahasiddha Naropa. He had studied at the Nalanda Buddhist University in Bihar. He is said to have meditated in the cave out here around which the monastery was then built. For two years he mediated in isolation at this location cut off from everything and everyone. The cave is what one needs to see when one visits this place. Cold damp and intriguing it ensures that the mind cannot wander anywhere but rather remain here focused on the thoughts that germinate in the mind.

There are numerous paintings on the cave walls which depict the history of the monastery. Even Phuktal did not arouse so deep aloof vibes as did Dzongkul. The feeling of being cut off from the entire world is so heavy out here. I was so thankful to have had the opportunity to come here and see the simplicity of the monasteries of Zanskar as they were supposed to be. The monasteries in Leh town have become too touristic for my liking.

The prayer flags carrying the message of the six worded mantra is something that draws each and every visitor in these Buddhist lands. Their fluttering mellows even the harshest of human emotion and the hum human face loses its rigidity and becomes mellow with thoughts of compassion flowing through the heart. Such is the power and when this happens in the backdrop of the mountain, believe me when i say that it is something deeply satisfying.

Sani gompa, Zanskar

The oldest religious site in the entire Ladakh, the monastery at Sani was built around the famous Kanika stupa and is named for the Kushan emperor Kaniksha. Sani is dedicated to Boddhisttava Padmasambhava who mediated here for close to five years. The monastery is situated in the Stod valley and just next to the monastery is Sani Lake, all covered by bright prayer flags. Truly a peaceful sight to see.

The monastery is hardly an imposing structure and one might most likely miss it unless it is being sought specifically. However, the interiors of the monastery permeate a sense of deep and ancient history in its prayer wheels, the way the interior colours have been done and the thangkas on the walls.

An old monk was kind enough to open the main prayer hall for me to have a look at I had reached the monastery in the afternoon when generally it is kept closed. He took me to the Kanika Stupa which is almost 6mt in height and is said to be built in 2 century AD. Imagine the depth of history that I was seeing.

Sani Lake or Tuthot Lake is regarded as a holy lake and there is a statue of Boddhisttava Padmasambhava right in the middle with the backdrop of the mountain ranges the lake makes a pretty sight indeed with green grasslands all around.

I did not think so highly of the Sani monastery when I doing research on the Zanskar region. Hoever having visited the place, I can now grasp the history and significance of this monastery among the various monasteries that abound in this region. The sense of importance that this monastery has among the people of Zanskar. Truly a privilege to have visited this lovely piece of history in the middle of ruggedness.

Zangla Fort, Zanskar

Zangla is the erstwhile capital of the Zanskar region. While the Ladakhi kings and the Dogras fought for control of Ladakh and its region, the Zangla kingdom remained largely untouched for a long period.

There are three palaces, the oldest being more than 2000 years old and completely in ruins. The second one, more than 700 years old stands atop a hillock and is known as the Zangla fort. If one wants to see the inside of the place, the caretaker needs to be contacted in the nearby village. However considering the state of disrepair, it is not a wise option to venture inside the dark rooms.

The Zangla Fort is breathtaking built precariously at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading to the Jhelum. This route used to be an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh. Thus the a need for a fort and several lookout towers. Ancient chortens are lined in the trail to the palace as well as to the Zangla village

Zangla Palace is also associated with the Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros. He was the one who compiled the first Tibetan-to-English dictionary and spent quite several years in India and Zanskar. It is in this palace that he compiled the translation during the deep winters.

Time stands still out here, there is hardly anyone who comes to this part of the region. The kites in the blue sky and the wind among the mountains are the only companions. Lots of opportunities to ponder on so many things that touch the heart. Zangla Fort is so wrapped in a time zone, it still stands in this modern age. However its end is nearing and maybe a couple of years down the palace and fort will only be the history books

Conclusion: Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh

It is not that by visiting these monasteries I gain something tangible or measurable. I don’t visit it for social media posts. However, the hunger inside me to make the effort to visit these far-flung places that emanate an aura which can be felt is a strong pull within. Maybe there are unquantifiable vibes that get amalgamated inside me. For a few moments in time I find myself a part of these historic places. The knowledge that I was here where a slice of the history of humanity was made is among other things, something for me that is worth the effort.

As I write this post, I can sitting thousands of miles away still feel so strongly the familiar vibe of the Zanskar mountain ranges. These monasteries standing as beacons for those who live their entire life in those mountains, a life so ordinary yet so extraordinary.  

Notes: While travelling to explore the Buddhist Monasteries of Zanskar Valley, Ladakh

While the best time to visit Zanskar Valley is pre-winter. It is recommended to be here in the months of July-Sep. There are sufficient homestays in the Zanskar region where one can plan a stay. How to reach Zanskar? The journey to Zanskar Valley there days has various routes. However, do note that Leh to Zanskar is only by road. For the first timers, I would recommend Leh town- Kargil – Padum or Manali-Purne-Padum (more difficult yet adventurous). The distance from Kargil to Padum is 232 km  while Leh to Zanskar by road is 450 km. There is also a Zanskar Valley Trek that goes through the high mountain passes. I did meet a group of Europeans who had embarked on this journey during my travels out in Zanskar. Do make a Zanskar Valley itinerary before venturing into this part of the world. Remember preparation is the key out here.