Temples of Bhubaneswar

Blog Post: Temples of Bhubaneswar. Temples in India have traditionally been the backbone of culture and art, which have matured over centuries. India is historically known as the land of temples. Bhubaneswar, the Capital city of Odisha, is also known historically as the “Temple City of India “. According to the existing records, there were approximately 700-1000 temples within the city’s precincts. These temples, in their own way, documented a complete record of the Kalinga style of architecture. While there are ancient must-see temples in Bhubaneswar, I  am focusing more on Ekamra Kshetra Temples.

Ekamra Kshetra in Bhubaneshwar

Within the city limits, there once stood a region known as Ekamra Kshetra. This Ekamra Kshetra was considered a sacred area with a single Main Temple surrounded by numerous smaller temples. This Ekamra Kshetra was a Panchakrosa ( 10 miles) in circumference. Interestingly, I  have come across the term PanchKrosa in Kashi as well, where the epicentre is the Kashi Viswanath temple. Pilgrims undertake the PanchKroshi Yatra before visiting the Kashi Viswanath temple.

Out here in the Ekamra Kshetra, the most famous temple of Bhubaneswar is the Lingaraja temple. It is designated as the centre with various other temples, shrines, water bodies, tirthas, and procession routes, all ritualistically and symbolically connected to the Lingaraja temple. 

Lingaraja temple remains the centre of this Ekamra Kshetra, now located in the old town of Bhubaneswar, with the Bindusagar Tank situated near the temple.

Significance of Ekamra Kshetra

This architectural treasure, with its historical spiritual connection, has made the Ekamra Kshetra one of the five great religious centres in Odisha. For centuries, it has attracted thousands of visitors from all corners of the country and the continent to witness the majesty and grandeur of these temples. These remain a perfect blend of sculpture and architecture—a showcase of the carvings’ artistry and a canvas for architectural motifs. For a connoisseur of fine arts, Bhubaneswar Ekamra Kshetra remains one of the most delightful experiences in India. Temples of Bhubaneswar should not be restricted to the Lingaraja Temple only. 

It is to this magnificent and spiritually connected place that I travelled. For close to a week, I walked along the lanes and bylanes of Old Bhubaneswar, consulting articles and maps and looking for signs to identify these temples of Bhubaneswar that are camouflaged within the city structures that have sprung up all over. But still they stand in quiet resolution, an ode to their glorious past and symbolic connection to the immortal Lingaraja Temple.

Kalinga Style of Architecture

The Temples of Bhubaneswar follow the Kalinga school of Architecture. I did read a bit on the Kalinga style of architecture and would like to break it down in a simple, lucid manner. The Kalinga architecture comprises each temple into Badadeula/Rekhadeula, followed by the Jagamohana and finally the Natyamandira and Bhogamandapa.

The Primary deities worshipped during the period of maturing Kalinga Architecture were Shiva, Vishnu, and Surya. The hierarchy of command in the temple construction is Karta ( chief patron), Mukhya sthapati( chief architect), Sutra grahaati ( chief engineer), Bardhanikas(stone settlers) and Takalaka ( the sculptor) 

What is my Blog about?

My blog focuses quite a bit on the history and culture of India, among other travel destinations I continue to explore. The history posts come up because, in ancient Indian History, many monumental architectures were created. I was captivated by the splendour of Hampi and the brilliance of Aihole; both were designed by dynasties that ensured the glory and story of their time were preserved through the architecture seen here.

Ancient Temples of Bhubaneswar

I visited the following Temples of Bhubaneswar during my travels to the Ekamra Kshetra – 

• Chitrakarini Temple
• Ananta Basudeva Temple
• Yameswara Temple
• Sukasari temple
• Mukteswara temple
• Parasurama temple
• Raja Rani temple
• Bhaskeswara Temple
• Brahmeswara Temple
• Megheswara Temple
• Lingaraja Tempe

Temples of Bhubaneswar

Chitrakarini Temple

Chitrakarini Temple is located right next to the Lingaraja Temple compound wall. This was the very first temple among the list of Temples of Bhubaneswar that I  decided to visit. I  walked with a slight apprehension to the seemingly deserted temple compound, with the eyes of the local folks on me. I am not very confident at this point about my idea to see the old temples situated right amidst the living communities and neighbourhood. 

Chitrakarini temple was constructed in the 13th century AD and built by King Narasingh Deva, the same ruler of the Ganga dynasty who had facilitated the construction of the Sun Temple at Konark. 

The temple is named after the Goddess Chitrakarini, a term that is attributed to a form of Goddess Saraswati. She is regarded as the Goddess of knowledge and creative expression. As I put my foot inside the temple complex, it struck me that this could not be a better start, for creativity is a significant aspect of my existence. 

The majority of the Temples of Bhubaneswar are under ASI supervision. The temple consists of the main shrine and four smaller shrines, each located separately. The sculptures are easy to see up close, considering that the entire temple complex is not very big. One thing that stuck with me was the green, manicured lawns that let people sit and relax in the evening—honestly, a splendid idea.

Ananta Basudeva Temple

Ananta Basudeva Temple is the second biggest monument after the Lingaraja Temple in the city of Bhubaneswar. It was the second temple out of my list of Temples of Bhubaneswar that I explored. The evening was still early with daylight hours in hand. It is situated right next to the Bindu Sagar tank, which is considered very sacred. 

The temple is a Vaishnava Temple and is historic. I  found it to be the perfect example of the Kalinga Architecture with the central Vimana, the Jagamohana, as well as Bhogamandapa and Natyamandapa, all arranged symmetrically. 

The Ananta Vasudeva temple was built in the 12th century by Queen Chandrika of the Gnaga dynasty.The temple on one side was filled with activity. I enquired about the hustle and bustle from the local ASI representative, whom I was fortunate to have come across on the temple compound. He informed me that the temple houses the largest kitchen in Bhubaneshwar. 

Every day, food is prepared for the devotees following age-old Hindu rituals wherein the cooking is done on earthen pots in the adjacent buildings. Tomatoes and potatoes are never used because they are not considered indigenous to India (a fact I did not know). Additionally, Onion and garlic are also forbidden. 

I  was also informed that the inscription of the temple was removed by the British and is now on display at the Royal Asiatic Society in London. I wanted to witness the evening Aarti, so I waited for quite some time, conversing with the rep from ASI as well as a junior priest. It was time well spent as I slowly warmed up to my idea of exploring the temples of Amra Kshetra in Bhubaneswar. 

Suka and Sari Temple

This particular temple complex led me on a merry ride. According to Google Maps, the temple is very close to the parking lot of the Lingaraja temple, adjoining the Bindu Sagar Tank. However, I could not find it. I did find two temples in the exact location; however, there was no board claiming these were the Suka & Sari temple complex. 

Moreover, the complex premises gate was padlocked, which prevented me from getting closer to have a look. However, I did frame the temple using a longer telephoto lens. 

A bit about the Suka and Sari temples

These temples were built in the 13th century by the Ganga dynasty rulers. These temple excavations started post-2014. Hence, most of the sculptures are intact compared to the other temple complexes in this region. One of the striking features that I  saw from afar was this image of Maa Parvati. She looks absolutely divine and mesmerising.

This temple complex needs to be opened up for closer visits. For those interested in the study of sculptures, this temple complex would be a worthy subject. By now, it was mid-morning as I continued my journey through the Temples of Bhubaneswar sojourn.

Parasurameswara Temple – Temples of Bhubaneswar

Parasuramesvara Temple is a significant addition to the list of Temples of Bhubaneswar. It is the earliest of the completely preserved temples in Bhubaneswar. The temple is estimated to have been built in the 6th century. Shailodbhava dynasty ruler Madhavaraja II built it, dedicating it to Lord Siva. This temple could easily be the oldest in Bhubaneswar.

 I was enthralled by the intricacy of the sculptures. The majority of the sculptures are of Shiva, Parvati, Kartikeya, and Ganesha. There is not even a foot of available stone where the rock is bare; such is the intensity of the sculpture that has been done here.

Built on the same lines as the Kalinga style of architecture, the Shikara and the Jagamohana are also included. The best part is that the temple is very well maintained. The sculptures have stood the test of time, and their detailed artistry is evident when observed up close.

Parasuramesvara temple, a hidden jewel in the Ekamra Kshetra

One of the earliest temples of Bhubaneswar, it is low-key in terms of recognition by visitors visiting the city. Parasuramesvara temple is a hidden jewel in the Ekamra Kshetra. For my Temples of Bhubaneswar journey, visiting this temple is a significant milestone.

I must commend the ASI for placing the signboards outside each temple, each with a concise footnote about the particular temple. This signboard helps me identify the temple and then look up the details from relevant foundations that have researched these temples.

The Parasuramesvara temple is a Live temple, meaning the idol of God is still installed within, which enhances the temple’s aura even more. I  was particularly fascinated by a unique Shivlinga that I observed here. Looking up, I realised that this kind of Shivlinga is called Shashralinga Shivalinga. As the name implies, this is a monolithic linga which is embedded with more than 1000 Shivlingas. I saw this at one more temple in the Ekamra Kshetra, called the Yameswara Temple.

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Mukteswara Temple

Mukteswara Temple is a gem of Kalinga Architecture. The temple was established during the 9th century by the Somavanshi dynasty.

Built of red sandstone, the temple is one of the finest examples of Odisha architecture. It sets the precedent for the expansive temples that were constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries. Temples of Bhubaneswar are largely unknown to people from outside the state, except for the Lingaraja Temple and perhaps one or two others.

One of the striking features of the Mukteswara temple is the intricately carved gateway called Torana. The entire arch has been sculpted grandly, and it dominates the whole temple complex owing to its location and carvings.

The temple consists of a jagamohana and a small pillared hall in front of it. In addition, we have the sculptures all along the outer periphery of the tower with standard motifs.

The temple stands within a well-maintained temple complex with manicured grass landscaping, where one can sit and gaze in silence at the temple and bells ringing in the distance.

Behind the temple is the Marichi water tank, considered auspicious for bathing, especially for women. It was also considered the abode of Siddha worship in ancient times.

Siddheswara Temple

The Siddheswara temple was constructed in the 15th century. It is located in the same temple complex as the Mukteswara temple.

Because the Mukteswara temple generally draws the attention of any first-time visitor, the Siddheswara temple typically comes across as subtle and lowkey.

The two striking features that I  got to see out here are:-

• The Shikara is way higher compared to the Mukteswara or Parasuramaveswara temples. Maybe a change in building philosophy is seen
• The captivating image of Lord Ganesha is seen on the exterior wall in a recessed panel. The colour combination seen is what makes this particular idol so distinct.
  
  

The temple is a Shiva temple where the Shivaliga is still worshipped. The inner sanctum is very plain with no substantial carvings or motifs. The solitary Shivalinga captures the entire attention.Siddheswara temple is definitely to be on the list of Temples of Bhubaneswar, in case one is visiting the Ekamra Kshetra.

Raja Rani Temple

One of the most popular monuments locally for those exploring the Temples of Bhubaneswar is the Lingaraj Temple.The original name of this temple is Indresvara. It is estimated to have been built in the 11th century by the Somavanshi dynasty rulers.

The original temple Shikara collapsed in the late 18th century and was later rebuilt by 1903. The reconstruction resulted in the main idol being shifted away from the temple, and since then, this temple has not had any idol which is worshipped.

How the name Raja Rani came to be, I have no idea. There is no clear theory about how this name change occurred. The temple is situated on the Tankapani road. The ASI manages it.

As the visitor walks into the expansive gardens, well-manicured landscaping is what greets him. There are benches to sit under the shade of trees, to relax and reflect on the grandeur of the RajaRani temple, which stands right in front.

The temple is built on a raised platform with symmetrical panels that reflect sculptures from the tales and legends of the Mahabharata as well as from the Shiva Purana. Additionally, there are several erotic carvings all over the temple. 

The elephant vanquishing a lion is one of the most dominant sculptures and themes from the Kalinga style of architecture. One will find this sculpture in most temples. The most famous is the one at the Konark Sun Temple entrance arch, which is known as Gajasimha

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Bhaskareswara Temple – Temples of Bhubaneswar

Walking along the Tankapani road in the afternoon sun, lugging my camera gear was not a very pleasant experience. I had been exploring the Temples of Bhubaneswar since early morning, and it was now past noon, with fatigue starting to set in. But I plodded on in search of the Bhaskareswara temple. The temple is not situated near the above-described temples but instead stands apart from the set.

It was a sigh of relief when I  finally located the Bhaskareswara Temple. It is also known as the Bhaskareswar temple. Standing aloof in a large, maintained garden area with benches built under leafy trees, the temple looked very grand indeed.

Describing the Bhaskareswara Temple

Contrary to the temples seen since morning, the Bhaskareswara temple looks different. The presiding deity is Shiva, and there is a huge Shiva linga in the inner sanctum. The entire temple is placed on a raised platform. There are steps to reach to the entrance of the inner sanctuary.

I  found this type of construction in the architectural philosophy used during the temple construction during the reign of the Hoysala rulers. The examples that come to my mind are the Chennakesava Temple at Beluru, Karnataka

I  climbed up the stairs and circumambulated the temple’s inner sanctum. The Shiva Linga was indeed massive and occupied almost the entire inner sanctum. It is a Live temple as prayers are offered to the deity. There is a small Nandi statue present outside the sanctum at the base of the temple.

Coming back to the Bhaskerswara temple, I  did not find any of the classical Kalinga architecture. In fact, the temple walls are largely devoid of any sculptures or depictions of mythological tales. I did find sculptures of Ganesha, Maa Parvati and Kartikeya.

Sitting on the bench under the shade of the leafy tree, I  wondered at the skill and artistry of the chief architect as well as his team, who constructed these jewels of Kalinga architecture.

Without enthusiasts, I wondered if these marvels of history would eventually be lost to time and erased from the memory of the current generation. But for now, they stand tall and regal, reminding all those who come visiting of their glory.

Brahmeswara Temple

Just opposite the Brhameswara temple, a street lane extends, dotted with houses and shops on both sides. Walking through the lane, after half a km, one comes face to face with the boundary wall of the Brahmeswara Temple.

It was established in the 11th century by the Somvanshi rulers. The construction consists of the principal temple dedicated to Shiva. There are four additional corner shrines at each end. The temple walls are intricately sculpted with various tales from the Shiva Purana as well as celestial damsels. There are also sculptures of animals and beasts. There is a Devi Shrine as well, including a vivid sculpture of Durga Maa sculpted on the wall of the main temple. 

The Shiva Linga seen was one of the most vivid and eye-catching. The decoration, as well as the flower arrangement, was exquisite. Also, the entire sanctum was lit with earthen lamps, imparting a very divine feeling to the whole atmosphere.

I recommend visiting the Brahmeswara temple, listed under the Temples of Bhubaneswar, as the architectural carvings are exquisite and the prayers offered are detailed.

Megheswara Temple

Megheswara temple was one of the last temples that I  visited in the Ekamra Kshetra. By the time I  reached this temple, my mind had been saturated by the plethora of temples, their richness in terms of architecture and history.

I  need to plan further trips to this region to see the other temples still in existence. Anyways, coming back to Megheswara Temple, built in the 11th century. The temple is situated next to the busy Tankapani road. A well-maintained landscaped garden surrounds the temple on three sides, with a limited number of benches provided for sitting in the shade.

Megheswara Temple is a living temple, which implies that idol worship is still prevalent.  It is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The exterior walls are covered with delicate sculptures, including those from the Shiva Purana. The entrance to the inner sanctum is guarded by two life-size sculptures of serpents/nagas, which look magnificent. Just outside the sanctum, Nandi is seated, looking onwards at the Shiva lingam. 

Yameswara Temple- Temples of Bhubaneswar

This temple is noteworthy due to the aura of mysticism that surrounds it. It is situated amid a quiet neighbourhood and is not easy to identify. Thank the ASI for the introductory board, confirming to me that the temple I  am standing in front of is indeed the Yamunotri Temple.

It is believed to have been constructed in the 7th century; indeed, this temple is historically ancient. Even to this day, the Lingaraja idol comes here once a year to pay respects. This simple fact clearly brings out the significance of this temple.

The Temple is adorned with sculptures and features a standalone Shiva Linga under the open sky, which is a Shashra Linga in itself. I  could see the Jagamohana as well as the detached Natya Mandapa. The sculptures of Navagraha are indeed quite eye-catching, as is the one of Ganesha.

Overall, it is a must-visit temple in Ekamra Kshetra, part of the Temples of Bhubaneswar.

Temples of Bhubaneswar

As I conclude my first-ever visit to the Ekamra Kshetra in Bhubaneshwar, I am awed. I  have witnessed a region steeped in history and spirituality. These temples stand as a testament ot the rich cultural heritage that existed around 11000 years ago. The temples represent an architectural marvel.

It has been an incredible journey, historically and spiritually fulfilling. Odisha Temples definitely have their distinct culture and traditions, which need to be experienced. Religious tourism in Bhubaneswar should not be restricted to just Lingaraja Temple; the other magnificent marvels described above should also be showcased.